The motorbike laden with camping equipment and the framed map placed at the entrance to La Galerie Nationale were Christian Ghammachi’s constant companions during his solo journey across Africa. The Dubai-based photographer spent six months on the road, covering over 19,000 kilometres from Cape Town to Djibouti, and passing through 16 countries. His latest show in Dubai, “Mzungu, The Aimless Wanderer”, features photographs taken on this epic journey.
Ghammachi’s photographs of the African landscape, ordinary people and everyday life in remote African villages reflect the Beirut-born artist’s love for the continent and his ability to find beauty in the most mundane moments and forgotten places. They capture the fragility and the resilience of the African people and the stark beauty of the terrain.
During this trip, Ghammachi went out of his way to seek out abandoned places, such as a hotel in Mozambique and a church in Tanzania, giving them a new life in his poetic photographs. The artist has also filmed a documentary during the trip. We spoke to him about his journey and the stories behind his photographs. Excerpts:
What was the idea behind this challenging trip?
For the last 20 years, my passion for photography has remained secondary to my work as a lawyer. In 2013, I decided to set aside law and focus on photography. I was then living in Cape Town and decided to do something that combined my passion for photography, travelling, motorbikes and Africa. For me, this project, which I named “Two Wheels Across”, was a quest for forsaken things and I wanted to show people that there is a lot of beauty and emotion in places that are not so obvious and that we often ignore.
I also wanted to raise awareness about issues such as wildlife conservation and children’s health and education in Africa, so I contacted people and institutions working in these fields and visited places such as SOS children’s villages during the trip. I set out in October 2013, but had to abandon the trip after a major accident in the desert. It took me five months to recover and repair my bike and I finally began in April 2014.
As a photographer what were you looking for?
I feel it is important for me to know the story of the places that I photograph, and I was particularly interested in abandoned places, such as the Xai Xai hotel in Mozambique. The guards at this once luxurious beach resort that was abandoned many years ago allowed me in for just 15 minutes. But you can see the layers of history and time in my pictures of the empty, derelict rooms, restaurants, lobby and the cafeteria, which is now used by the guards.
I found out about the abandoned monastery on a hill in Tanzania from the owner of a lodge I stayed in and have tried to convey its fascinating history through my pictures. Other images are based on what moved me at a particular time and in a particular state of mind, such as a tiny grocery store, a restaurant named Honeymoon, an abandoned fishing boat on a quiet beach and a truck driving through the empty desert raising a trail of dust behind it.
I have tried to capture the beauty of these simple, stark places and the amazing African landscape and skies. I have also included portraits of people because I am keen to show the human element. I was looking to create images that will move viewers and make them want to know the stories behind them.
What is the documentary about?
It is a “selfie reality” documentary that aims to show that Africa is a beautiful country with friendly people and a variety of sights to see and activities for tourists. One episode is dedicated to the SOS Children’s Village in Swaziland. In another, I have discussed the issue of rhinoceros poaching with the person in charge of security at Kruger National Park.
There is the interesting story of the abandoned monastery in Tanzania, which touches on the colonial history of Africa, the slave trade and the ecological changes in the area. I have also included interviews with ordinary people I met, and information about camping sites, luxury hotels, wildlife safaris, diving and other activities. The photographs in the show are linked with the documentary, so visitors can learn about the stories behind them.
My company in Dubai, Two Wheels Across, is currently looking for co-producers to scale up this web documentary for a wider release.
Were you not scared to ride solo across Africa?
I was more thrilled than scared; and I never felt unsafe because the people were so amazingly friendly. Besides, with the technology available today, you can be as connected as you want and need never feel alone. I passed through so many beautiful places, including the Okawango delta in Botswana, which has been declared a world heritage site by Unesco.
There were also some scary parts, such as the “road of terror and death” between Kenya and Ethiopia, which is dangerous because of bandits and the poor quality of the road. It took me two days to cover 400 kilometres on that road because I had to go slowly and rest often.
I have to admit that riding on that road, and also hearing about Daesh (the self-proclaimed Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant) beheading a Frenchman made me feel hesitant to continue the journey. I was in a state of mind where I felt suspicious of everybody. But a beautiful encounter with a group of children in Ethiopia changed my mindset completely, and I was able to relax and enjoy the rest of the journey.
Why did you choose this title for the show?
“Mzungu” is a Swahili word, which means a person who wanders aimlessly, and it generally refers to a foreigner. This is how I was greeted everywhere I went. For six months, I heard this endearing term a hundred times every day. It became a part of my journey, and using it as the title of my exhibition is my way of saying thank you.
“Mzungu, The Aimless Wanderer” will run at La Galerie Nationale, Al Quoz, until July 29
