He will forever be known as the guy behind Lady Gaga’s meat dress. But Italian designer Nicola Formichetti is so much more than that. From being the pop star’s stylist, to his stint at Vogue Hommes Japan (he’s half Japanese) and his role as creative director of fashion house Mugler, this 36-year-old has ruffled many feathers along the way.
Often called a visionary and praised for the comfort and ease with which he’s adapted fashion to the internet age, Formichetti is now on the throes of his next big thing — as creative designer for Italian fashion label Diesel.
Before his first collection for the label was unveiled on Thursday at a massive event in Venice, Formichetti spoke with tabloid! to discuss his vision for Diesel, the future and why he thinks the fashion industry has some real catching-up to do.
You said recently that the fashion industry is a bit old-fashioned. What exactly did you mean by that and how do you plan to change it?
The way the fashion industry has been presenting collections/clothes with fashion shows or trunk shows is very old fashioned and hasn’t changed or evolved for such a long time.
We need to create a new way of presenting fashion with a new experience using fashion, music and technology.
You’ve often been referred to as a visionary, especially when it comes to moving the fashion industry forward into the digital era. Why is it so important to jump onto the digital bandwagon?
Digital is very important! There are new invasions happening every day and we need to be aware of this to move forward. Using digital shouldn’t feel like an extra activity but at the core of what we do because it is already at the core of our lives with apps and social media present at every step of our days.
Of course, you’ll always be known as the man behind Lady Gaga’s meat dress (among other things). What would you say to people who say you shock for the sake of shocking?
It was so much fun working with gaga. we never wanted to shock people…for us it was always about art and performance.
Tell us the various ways in which being with Diesel ties in with your creative vision for fashion?
Diesel is a global brand for which I now get to use all the knowledge I accumulated from my life and work experiences. It has a strong rebellious attitude, and is all about connecting with a new generation of young talents. It’s perfect for me as I’ve always been about giving a chance to the new generation.
What was it about the gig in Diesel that made you say yes?
It was Renzo’s (Rosso) passion that made me say yes. I want to be like him when I’m older. He is my hero.
How has the journey at Diesel been so far?
Almost a year in Diesel now and it has been incredible. It’s so much fun when you find your perfect match. Can’t wait to show you all what’s coming up.
What would you like Diesel to become under your creative control?
I want Diesel to become (again) the coolest brand on the planet.
You spent two years at Mugler. Tell us a little bit about your time there.
Paris was a great city to work in. I had an amazing experience there and I will never forget it.
How does one make creativity and financial responsibilities go hand-in-hand?
You need to balance it well and the frontier is very thin in fashion. Both creativity and business are very important, it’s creative currency.
Your mother is from Japan, and your projects, even with Diesel, feature a lot of Japan in them. Besides your parentage, what is it about Japan and fashion that works really well?
The Japanese culture has been influencing the fashion world for so long. Japan is a land of extreme culture. It’s futuristic and historic, it’s classic, timeless and the unusual beauty. Maximum and minimal.
What are you feeling this season? What are your inspirations?
This season I feel like going back to the basics, the essentials. I love diving into the history of Diesel, we have what we call the museum in our HQ and it archives 35 years of Diesel history. I’ve been looking at denim, leather and military inspirations.
Where does the idea for a collection usually come from for Nicola. Is it a dream? A relationship? A song?
It mostly comes from my instinct, pure instinct feeling. I try to feel it with my body and not with my brain.
How important are fashion campaigns to you?
I love creating visuals. It’s so much fun. Making your design come to life with the set, models, ambiance, the spirit being a collection comes to life in a campaign. So yes. its very important to me.
What’s your take on Lady Gaga’s latest style evolution? Any future projects planned with her?
Gaga will always look great because she is fearless and she is herself. There are no plans of any future project for the moment, but, never say never.
Where does menswear stand at this point in fashion? Is it moving the way you want to? If not, how would you like to change it?
I love menswear. Its moving very slowly but in the right direction. I think menswear fashion is more restrictive than women’s wear but I can’t wait to see where and how it will evolve.
In your opinion, what’s missing in the fashion industry now?
We need to support more young talents. Give the chance to the new generation and keep the creativity rotating.
If you had it your way, where would you like to take the fashion industry five years from now?
I’m not sure what is going to happen in five years but I want to be at the forefront of the industry.
Have you ever been to Dubai?
Yes I have. I went there few times to do fashion shoots. I really loved the architecture, what an incredible place, but I do remember it being very hot there.
