Reading about the recent efforts to ensure a smooth ride on trains in India, a handful of wonderful experiences gathered during journeys on these historic carriers during my years of growing up come trundling into mind. They are largely centred on our two-day train trips every summer, starting from the extremely busy and overcrowded Howrah station till disembarking at a quaint, quiet stop surrounded by greenery in southern India.
Looking back, I realise now, how those days spent on the train played out as a microcosm of the culture, colours and ethnicity of the country itself. Friendships were created, enthralling life stories were exchanged with complete strangers, interesting observations were made about people and life in general and of course, a variety of food from every region was shared.
There was certainly never a dull moment since there was always something to hold our attention. I remember being part of a birthday celebration on one journey, an exciting game of cards and two occasions where the train came to an abrupt halt at a deserted location when someone had pulled the chain, a device meant to be used during emergencies.
What was constant, however, was the loud din on the carriages — of people walking up or down the aisle of the compartment, the rising chatter, luggage being shoved in or out from beneath the seats or berths and of course, the diverse chants of various vendors selling their wares. The rocking, rhythmic motion of the train and the comforting clanking of food trays that were brought around during mealtimes were other the familiar sounds.
Besides the food served on the trains, the tantalising variety of food available at the stations, almost every station selling the specialities of that particular region, undoubtedly emerge as the most exciting part of any train journey in India. Most lazy afternoons on the trains revolved around eating fried snacks on paper plates while the adults sipped steaming cups of chai (tea). Also, the taste of freshly plucked guavas cut up into small pieces and served with a sprinkling of salt and spices by a vendor at a deserted station remains an unparalleled memory.
When not watching the hustle and bustle at a station, the rapidly changing slides of the moving landscape outside the train window offered a constant source of engagement. During most train journeys, we encountered children in shabby clothes but twinkling smiles waving excitedly at the passing train, men and women working in the fields, people going about their chores, lofty mansions and simple huts, barren land that stretched endlessly or overcrowded townships with vehicles waiting impatiently at the railway crossings.
As the trains traversed the green countryside and dry barren wastelands, rivers and mountainous areas, slums and busy cities, the incredible diversity and the stark contrasts never failed to amaze us while making us simultaneously aware of the seamless integration of it all.
During the nights, the dazzling lights of the city came alive in some stretches, whereas in others, the tiny flames of oil lamps could be seen flickering inside huts dotting the villages that we were passing through. Sometimes awakened from slumber in the middle of the night, unsure whether one was dreaming or awake, pulling back the little curtain of the train window would often reveal a deserted station, until the loud whistle of the engine would be heard in the distance, followed by the noise of the wheels as the train would once again start rolling into the darkness.
Nearing our destination, we would certainly be worn out by the chaos, filth, delays in train schedules and many other travails of a tedious journey. However, the excitement, adventure and unexpected encounters wove a magic far greater than all of these inconveniences along the way and we were always bursting with stories and anecdotes to share with eager cousins about an exhilarating ride.
Modernising the trains and railway stations and providing passengers with better facilities are much needed and undisputedly welcome steps. However, one certainly hopes that amidst all the bells and whistles of the technological changes in rail services, the richness of the experience that these journeys have always provided will remain undiminished and the charm of tales aboard these trains continue unabated.
Fyna Ashwath is a journalist based in Dubai.
