Since Lady Gaga's sensational performance of the American anthem to celebrate Joe Biden's election (wearing Schiaparelli for the event), the fashion house has managed to attract the attention of haute couture connoisseurs. Daniel Roseberry is now one of the most exciting American designers in Paris since Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton. Artistic director for Schiaparelli since 2019, after ten years for Thom Browne, Daniel Roseberry knows how to express the fantasy and the extravagance which made the reputation of Elsa Schiaparelli, with inspirations from surrealism.
With Roseberry, clothes are not clothes: they are more like jewels, armour, or even an abstract object which envelop the body. This season is a matador maximalist version where the American designer creates a subtle conversation between art, science fiction, and the iconic archives of Elsa Schiaparelli.
Maxi embroidered matador jackets, sculpted bustier with gazelle horn shape, and archives stand out like the rose embroideries on a 1937 coat, that Elsa designed with Jean Cocteau. Some pieces, such as a jacket covered with crystals or a mini dress with a metal flower stem, recalling the detail of historic haute couture pieces.
Accessories and jewellery are also the centerpieces of the collection. Their surreal design is reminiscent of Salvator Dali: big ears and pendulum eyes, a giant mirror-effect vinyl hat in the shape of a flying saucer, a magnificent neck jewel that hugs the lungs' shape, contrasts by its gold colour on an austere dress - a perfect look for the Cannes Festival.