Small bites, big reward

When Christopher Columbus set forth to explore the world for Spain, he was also taking Spain to the world. Considered the first truly global force, the former colonial power has left an indelible mark on everything from politics to the arts, but one of its most enduring legacies has been on the culinary front.

From the humble Spanish omelette and paella to the outworldy gastronomic creations of iconic chef Ferran Adrià of the now-closed elBulli, Spain has influenced not only what we eat, but also how we eat. Enter tapas, that post-siesta, pre-dinner snack that has come into its own as a fully fledged meal, and the UAE hasn’t lagged behind with a slew of outlets opening recently adding to those already devoted to it. While some convert non-traditional cuisines into tapas — such as the popular Japas or Japanese tapas nights at Benihana, Amwaj Rotana JBR — others make the Spanish tapas their raison d’être.

“Tapas originated in the traditional bodegas in Spain where people go to have a bite to eat and a drink,” says chef Alvaro Roa of the recently opened Salero — Tapas & Bodega at the Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates. “It started with them serving cheese or bread to get customers to stay longer and spend more. Nowadays its value has changed to more of a culinary experience with restaurant-quality offerings.”

Luis Figueroa, Head Chef at the recently opened Casa de Tapas at the Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club, says he feels at home at this home of tapas. “Having grown up in Spain and learning about Spanish cooking it seemed only natural for me to work on a Spanish menu,” he says of the venue that devotes most of its menu to the cuisine. “People often go to dinner as a group, and tapas is perfect for this as it is a sharing concept. This makes the experience not only enjoyable as a meal, but an intimate moment between friends.”

Figueroa says paella is currently the outlet’s most popular dish. “However, I believe the fideuá negra de chipirones, gambas y sepia will soon outshine it as it is unique to Casa de Tapas.”

The dish is a revelation — cooked in squid ink, the black colour takes some getting used to, but the baby squid, prawns and cuttlefish share a rich flavour. Usually cooked with rice, the outlet’s use of angel hair pasta is a lighter variation.

Variety rules

Uwe Micheel, President of the Emirates Culinary Guild and Director of Kitchens at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Deira Creek, says, “When we talk about tapas, we usually expect food that’s served fast and easy to eat.”

All the chefs GN Focus spoke to agree its biggest appeal lies in the variety it allows diners to sample. “In terms of quantity, you might eat the same as you would during a normal dinner,” says Pascal Jansen, Executive Chef at the Hilton Capital Grand Abu Dhabi. The hotel’s Latin-themed outlet Noche focuses on the cuisine.

Summer hits

Sharing hot and cold appetisers also works in the climate of the UAE. “I would say that tapas are linked to summer season and terraces,” says Jansen.

Aquara at the Dubai Marina Yacht Club has embraced this concept, offering relaxing afternoons through World Tapas as an alternative to the ubiquitous Friday brunch. It supplements Spanish favourites with global flavours, highlighting a different part of the world every month. Seafood and poultry sit alongside vegetarian-friendly bites such as vegetable tempura and rice balls, all served flying buffet-style at your table.

Often popular during tighter economic times due to the smaller portions costing less, Micheel says “traditional Spanish tapas are really good value for money dishes”, but “today chefs are offering [upmarket] tapas with everything from lobster to goose liver”.

With wastage becoming a growing concern, he highlights another benefit of tapas: “In general, people eat a little less, but waste a lot less.”