The old to new

Oman was known for its traditional silver jewellery. But today there are only three or four traditional silversmiths left, says Ahmad Abdul Rahman, one such silversmith who has been practising his art at the very same place for the last 50 years.

Souq Muttrah at Muscat distils the very essence of modernity and tradition within its cool dark corridors.

On the one hand we have the polished granite and glass exteriors of modern jewellery shops exhibiting international designs and on the other, we have a couple of the fast disappearing quaint workshops of traditional silversmiths so well known for their jewellery making skills.

Ahmad Abdul Rahman, a wizened old man, perhaps in his mid-seventies (no one celebrated birthdays in his times, he tells me), is one such traditional smith who has been practising his art at the very same place for the last 50 years.

While his counterparts in the big, gleaming shops sit on the quilted comfort of stuffed chairs and sofas, Rahman's little shop is quite an anachronism for our times.

It's not well decorated, no neon lights, no sofas, as he sits on the floor with his tools all in a little handmade cupboard at arm's length as he practises his trade.

For a man who never went to school, Rahman is surprisingly fluent in English, Arabic and Hindi and speaks with a twinkle in his eyes about the days gone by.

"I learnt my craft from my grandfather and father. This shop has been here ever since the souq opened and I have memories of sitting and learning the trade from my elders. I never thought of doing anything else. I think necessity and the pangs of hunger teach you everything.

"Now, my only son, "finds this too boring and slow and I wouldn't advise him to do this either, because there isn't much money in this anymore. People prefer to buy new and modern jewellery, no one wants to buy old pieces from you," says Rahman working at a leisurely pace, heating, welding and cleaning old silver bracelets as he talks.

Rahman does not sell modern gold jewellery. He sends people to the interiors of Oman, to the villages of Nizwa, Sur and other such areas, scouting for traditional, neck and head jewellery, old coins, silver anklets and the like.

He then cleans, repairs and in many cases, refashions the piece. For instance, he uses rare, old coins to craft new silver key chains, which many of his international clients buy as little mementoes.

Everything in the shop is old-fashioned. He uses old rags to clean his silver, the jars that contain acid are murky, the brushes old, the jewellery hanging on hooks around the four walls is heavily oxidised and yet there is an endearing character to his shop, something that says volumes about Rahman and his brave attempts to survive in this highly competitive, customer driven trade.

"Oman was known for its traditional silver jewellery and our work, but today there are only three or four traditional silversmiths in this souq. Earlier, we would purchase silver sheets, wires and coins and fashion out silver jewellery.

"Now I mostly repair and clean and sell traditional items. The rents are so steep and the business is not so good. I barely manage to make ends meet, but that is enough for me. But it is sad that precious little is being done to preserve our traditional crafts."