The lure of Ladakh

I stood at 18,500 feet and, surrounded by soaring snow-capped peaks much higher than where I was, it was a feeling of having achieved bliss.

As I trudged along the icy, slippery road, I struggled to breathe, since the air was rarefied. I was at Khardung-la Pass, up in the Himalayas, an area of Ladakh, India, known more for its startling beauty and enemy incursions.

Tourism above terror

The past few decades have been marked with constant skirmishes and sometimes war, leading to the region becoming a military stronghold that is always on high alert. Hence, despite the heavy but comforting presence of the jawans (soldiers) of the Indian army, nothing can take way from the pristine splendour of the remote, snow-clad region.

Khardung-la Pass marks the zenith of the highest motorable road in the world. If it was not for the stream of trucks carrying supplies for the army, plus a few cross-country vehicles for tourists, the area would remain the quiet preserve of hardy trekkers and cyclists. The road, which starts in Leh, winds around mountains, dips into valleys and ascends rapidly until it reaches Khardung-la, then descends into Nubra Valley. At times, it is barely wide enough to hold a single truck and, with the drop being thousands of metres, overtaking another vehicle becomes a heart-stopping moment. Bordering parts of the road are ice banks, with sections melting into beautiful, surreal sculptures.

The region, known for its startling beauty and lofty snowclad peaks, is also referred to as "mini-Tibet". Linked for centuries by language, architecture and religion, Ladakh is being rediscovered by tourists. "It was only in the mid-1970s that we opened for tourism," said a Ladakhi guide, "and the only ones who ventured here were hikers or cyclists. It is after the trouble in Kashmir that Indians began coming to Leh and even now, Westerners outnumber Indians by a huge margin." Indeed, from backpackers to trekkers, the tourists had an average age of 30.

Also present were some older visitors, who came for the mystic experience or to study Buddhism.

With the advent of tourism and problems in Kashmir came Bollywood (I was politely requested to give up my hotel room as Aamir Khan arrived for the shooting of 3 Idiots — it was his favourite room!). Hotels have sprung up, travel agencies have set up base and now it is a favoured destination for tourists who want an offbeat experience. The season is short (June-early November) and then Ladakh goes back to being in the grip of snow and ice.

The landscape is arid: The mountains are devoid of greenery and there is a wild and wonderful appeal of remoteness. The only pockets of farming are in some valleys. The people are friendly and hospitable. Travel agencies abound and it is best to link with a company for a hassle-free tour of the many monasteries and scenic spots.

Just use Leh as a starting point. The old palace is in a sorry state but, once upon a time, it must have been splendid. The architecture is very similar to the iconic Potala Palace, once the home of the Dalai Lama. The city bazaar is full of Chinese kitsch goods and in between are shops selling Kashmiri shawls. There is also a German bakery to cater to Western tourists!

Palaces and festivals

Stok Palace, once the home of the Namgyals (former rulers of Ladakh), is about 14 kilometres away. Part of it is a museum. However, it is far more interesting to check out the huge monasteries. Hemis is one of the largest and richest monasteries in the region. Founded in 1630 by the King Namgyal, it is known for its spectacular annual festival, which is held in summer. It is noted for its three-storey-high handmade thangkha, which is unveiled every 12 years. The festival includes dance dramas with monks and novices wearing ornate costumes and masks, enacting religious legends that highlight the victory of good over evil. The festival brings in Ladakhi villagers form far-off areas, besides hordes of tourists.

Another must-visit is the Lamayuru Monastery, built on a crag overlooking a barren landscape. Built in the 11th century, it has a fine collection of thangkhas.

Further afield is the eerily beautiful Pang-gong Tso Lake (featured in many Bollywood films, including 3 Idiots). Surrounded by mountains, it is noted for its deep blue waters. The lake flows into Tibet, where it is known as Turquoise Lake.

Another stop is the Alchi Monastery, a collection of five buildings dating back to the 12th century. Strangely enough, it was abandoned as a place of worship in the 16th century and has well-preserved murals and paintings. One of the noteworthy statues is that of the gigantic Avaloktesvara, the legs of which are adorned with paintings of Buddhist pilgrimage sites.

Magical experience

The lure of snow-covered, remote regions is reason enough to take the next flight to Ladakh.

Ladakh is sandwiched between Pakistan and China. Once quite remote and closed to tourists, it is now well connected, with many flights to Delhi and the rest of India.

Visiting Ladakh is an unforgettable experience, as one witnesses an endless vista of snow-capped mountains and glaciers. It is magical.

— Nirmal Khanna is a UAE-based freelance writer