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Ligaya Mishan

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The taste of phuchka in New York

Why Bengali snacks are hot hits in NY neighbourhoods

Plates of food, including fuchka, deep-fried semolina shells filled with potatoes and yellow split peas, and tamarind water for dipping, from Fuskahouse, a Bengali snack cart that opened in January, in New York, Aug. 23, 2019. The cart is one of two on the same patch of turf, both with virtually identical menus, headlined by fuchka, a Bengali snack that is kin to gol gappa in India’s north and pani puri in the west and south. (An Rong Xu/The New York Times)

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