Nainital is a hill station in the Kumaon region of the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand. About 300km from the Indian capital, New Delhi, the name itself conjures up images of Bollywood movies from the sixties, where the hero would invariably meet his love on an outing with friends in Nainital.

Nainital is made up of two words — nain, meaning eye and tal, which translates to lake in Hindi. Local legends connect the word nain with the whole town blossoming (or mushrooming) around the Naini lake.

Memories of the Raj

Though discovered in the early 1800s by the British, it was only in the mid-1800s that it became a popular hill resort and a centre of education. Much of the credit is given to P. Barron, a British sugar trader who, upon chancing on this place, was so awestruck by the beauty that he gave up his business, and built an European colony around the lake instead.

Today, the town is an urban sprawl with concrete houses hugging the hillsides. However, these scenes are easily forgotten when the emerald-green lake comes into view or when quaint hamlets pass you by on the drive to the different resorts on the hill slopes.

Points of view

We checked into our lovely resort on the slopes of Ayarpatta, one of the seven hills surrounding the lake. Over lunch, we found our bearings after a chat with the waiter, who was a local. We were informed that the high-altitude zoo was temporarily closed due to the flash-strike by the forest department staff and that the must-see Snow View Point was best visited in the mornings as mist draped the mountains by late afternoon.

We were also told little shopping secrets — such as driving a hard bargain at the Tibetan market and that shops at Bara Bazaar, a local market, have the best array of candles. The waiter also offered to arrange for horses to take us to Dorothy's Seat. Now, one either takes to horse riding or does not.

To me — after an experience at Matheran (a hill station near Mumbai) — riding a horse was like walking on hot bricks. So we politely declined his offer, preferring to set out on foot in search of Dorothy's Seat, Camel Back Point, Land's End and such strange-sounding places which are a staple of most hill stations.

After speaking to a tea stall owner, who gave us directions, we found our way to Dorothy's Seat, rather to the narrow cobblestone path leading to it. A signboard helpfully said that it was 5km; "5km uphill," my husband said. But I prodded him to check it out "just a little". We walked endlessly on the curvaceous path. At every turn, another turn emerged in the distance until, finally, we reached Camel Back Point (named because the opposite hill resembled a camel's back). We then proceeded to the the scenic Land's End and, in what seemed like hours of walking on a path with forests on both sides, found Dorothy's Seat.

Thankfully, my husband put his foot down a few minutes before sunset, saying it would get dark in half an hour and that we would take at least 45 minutes to get back down. I was convinced to turn back.

We were back at the foothills just in time to see the sunset. On our way back, we were asked if we had enjoyed the view of the other side of town from Dorothy's Seat. We merely nodded, as, apparently, many tourists turn back midway since it is a really long trek.

Tales tall and true

Early next morning, we took the complimentary hotel shuttle car to Mall Road, which circles one half of the lake and around which all activities are concentrated.

The road on the other side of the lake is called thandi sadak, which can be roughly translated as "cool road". The name came about because the area is always in the shade thanks to either the trees lining the lake or the shrubs on the hill slope.

After a short, steep walk, we arrived at the cable car to buy tickets and ride up to Snow View Point. There, we were informed that the counter would open "in about an hour's time". Though the official opening time is 9am, it was much later when it actually became functional.

As we waited, several boatmen and guides gathered around us, offering us a boat ride or a drive around town. Checking a badge flashed by one of the boatmen and confirming that the standard rate was Rs120 (Dh11) for an hour, we got into the colourful wooden boat. It did not help that when asked about the water's depth, the boatman replied: "Not known, probably 120 feet or so".

Over the next one hour, however, we forgot our initial jitters as the boatman enthralled us with stories about the town, the region and the legends related to its history. It was so much fun to listen to all the stories about the place, on a sojourn, from a native, rather than reading about it in a travelogue or in one of the guidebooks.

Later, after the cable-car counter opened, we went on to Snow View Point. The panoramic view of the Himalayas was breathtaking. The Nanda Devi peak and the Trishul, or three peaks, were clearly visible in the bright morning sun. A thrill ride was available, where, like at amusement parks, you are strapped on to a seat and then launched vertically in the air to a great height. It was a very fascinating ride, the most thrilling I have taken.

Peak pleasure

With our feet dangling in the air at a height of about 100ft, we were face to face with the sunlit, golden peaks of the Himalayas for a few minutes. It sure felt good to be back on terra firma but the ride and the view made it well worth the effort.

On the opposite side of the cliff was a beautiful view of the lake which resembled the shape of an eye, an emerald eye. There were several shops around it, each displaying the local costumes. Tourists could rent them, wear them and be photographed in them.

After a touristy photo session in the colourful costumes, we were back on Mall Road via the ropeway.

Post lunch, we left for a short trip to the other lakes in the vicinity. After a brief stopover at Bhim Tal, we drove up to Sat Tal, which, in Hindi means 'seven lakes' and spent a quiet hour or two.

With not much commercialisation, fewer shops and hotels, Sat-tal is an idyllic, serene locale where one can be close to nature.

Back at base

That evening, we returned to Nainital and went shopping in and around Mall Road. Cars are not allowed on the road in the evenings. It is reserved for pedestrians. A festive atmosphere prevails, with city crowds and locals enjoying the chilly evening by the lake. The Tibetan market is close by, off the Flatts, which is the level ground where we had seen a game of cricket being played in the afternoon. It was good shopping at the lively and colourful shops. Almost every shop sold candles but the ones at Bara Bazaar, a stone's throw away, were amazing.

The next morning, we visited the temple at one end of the lake where the presiding deity is 'Naina devi', a goddess in Hindu mythology, and then bid adieu to the emerald eye nestled among the seven hills to begin our long and arduous road journey back to Delhi.

— Anjali Hebbar is a UAE-based freelance writer

Go there... Nainital

From the UAE
The nearest international airport to Nainital is New Delhi.

From Dubai: Emirates Airlines flies four times a week. Fare: Dh2,580
Qatar Airways flies five times a week via Doha. Fare: Dh2,020 Indian Airlines flies daily. Fare: Dh1,680
Air India flies daily. Fare: Dh900

From Abu Dhabi: Gulf Air flies daily via Bahrain. Fare: Dh1,450
Etihad Airlines flies daily. Fare: Dh1,140
Air India flies three times a week. Fare: Dh1,070

— Information courtesy: MMI Travel

Best time to visit
Nainital teems with holidayers during summer, especially April and May, when schools close for vacations. Winters, from December to February, are cold with the higher altitudes experiencing snowfall.

By Anjali Hebbar, Special to Explore

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