Dubai: The rich heritage of Emirati women’s jewellery that tells a compelling story of UAE’s trade links in the past and the influences they brought with them has been captured in the Gulf News 2017 calendar.
Called the ‘Glittering Treasures of the Emirates’, the specially made calendar features 12 stunning Emirati jewellery designs that reveal the intricacy and craftsmanship that goes into the making of each.
Following a sequential depiction, the designs herald the new year with the first few months featuring head pieces followed by earrings, elaborate necklaces, right down to dainty toe rings and foot ornaments.
Each month in the calender has a jewellery item whose name, purpose, context and design are explained in the notes. Each jewellery item’s name is also represented in calligraphy.
The jewellery designs and shapes hold cues to the affluence and social standing of the wearer in those times.
“The interesting fact about the jewellery is that [each piece] tells a story. The influences for the jewellery [have come in from] far and wide,” Mark Shadwell, creative director at Promoseven 360 who created the calendar, told Gulf News.
“Some influences came from Africa. Some of the bracelet designs came from people who traded here, while other designs came from east India. [Each piece of jewellery] is almost like a microcosm — it tells the story of the UAE.”
Gulf News has for many years published special calendars that depict the UAE and the region’s rich heritage. It has featured Arabian horses, the ghaf tree, the different faces of the UAE desert, the aromas of Arabia and Arabian percussion instruments, among others.
“For 2017, we chose [to depict] Emirati jewellery because it’s a very interesting theme that gives people something very visual that they can keep on their desks and that also adds to their understanding of the UAE culture and heritage,” Shadwell said.
Producing the images of the jewellery for the calendar was the main challenge, Duaa Abzeed, art director at Promoseven 360, said.
“We went to different jewellery shops and took pictures of the items. As we explained the project to them, some declined [to participate], while some welcomed us,” Abzeed said.
Once the pictures of the jewellery items were taken, they were sent to Natalia Tyulkina, a specialist jewellery illustrator based in Russia, who drew the designs in watercolour. For Tyulkina, the project taught her a lot about the UAE.
“Before the project, I knew nothing about the UAE culture. When I received the brief, I thought that it would be a very interesting project and a unique opportunity to learn more about the country,” Tyulkina said, adding, “I was stunned by the beauty of the jewellery.”
A significant aspect of transforming the visual art for the calender lies in the printing process. Using Al Nisr Publishing’s latest printing machines, the jewellery designs were printed using the process of spot UV printing that uses additional coating of a clear gloss to add an extra touch of splendour to the design. Gold foiling was also added to emphasise the calligraphy on the designs.
“The previous calendars we made were standard calendars. They did not require foiling, no spot UV, no embossing. The 2017 calender has them all and features our new printing capabilities,” said Renyold Robert, production manager at Al Nisr Publishing, one of the largest commercial print houses in the region that publishes Gulf News and many other titles.
Special pieces
The ‘Al Tasah’, for example, featured in the month of February, is a fine work of art reserved for the grandest of occasions. The intricately designed headpiece consists of a crown of gold with dangling gold chains that bear fine inscriptions.
For the neck, the Al Morta’Sha commands attention. Meticulously crafted in gold and sometimes in silver, the necklace comes with a main gold band on top that flows in gold chains extending to the upper chest of the wearer.
The Al Kaf for the hand, a unique Emirati design for a bracelet, and the Al Haqab for the waist are equally mesmerising.
