Buenos Aires is a city of many faces, with bustling and chic areas, fascinating old colonial districts and trendy streets packed with boutiques – BA has it all. Just don’t leave without trying tango and dining with friends around
an asado…
Street life
When you first touch down in Buenos Aires, you might be daunted by the many district names, or the fact that the city seems to sprawl out endlessly. But, despite its size, Buenos Aires is actually a very manageable city on foot. You won’t be able to take in the whole city in a day the way you can in Rome, but pick an area and stroll from bar to bar or café to café and you’ll find the hidden spots that the locals – or porteños – treasure.
The Palermo Viejo district is a must-visit – filled with boutiques, bars and bookshops, which line its cobbled streets, this stylish spot is the place to explore by day and dance in by night. Palermo Viejo is the number-one spot for retail therapy – overlook the international brands in favour of local designers, for an esoteric buy no one at home will have. Palermo is also the district with the wide, green open spaces, so if busy city life becomes a bit too much, head to the Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden) or Jardín Japonés (Japanese Garden) for a breath of fresh air.
Plaza de Mayo is another must. Not only is it the central hub of the city, the famous Casa Rosada is where the long-ruling Perón family would address the people, and the balcony here is the setting for the iconic scene in Evita in which Madonna belts out Don’t Cry For Me, Argentina.
Two to tango
Taking a tango lesson or two is de rigueur, and you won’t be short of options in this vibrant, dance-obsessed city; and the colourful streets of La Boca are where you’ll find the city’s most exciting tango experiences. Head to the district during the day and you’ll see pairs of dancers practising in the street, and putting on impromptu shows of their footwork skills.
Head to a milonga, which is both a place where dancing takes place and the name of a style of tango. The milonga establishments are scattered around the city, but Club El Beso (www.tango-club.com/elbeso), or Club Gricel in San Cristobal (www.clubgriceltango.com.ar), are among the city’s best. With both professional demonstrations and get-up-and-join-in dancing every night, these are a tango lover’s dream, and don’t be surprised if it’s all still going strong until 5am, as the party never seems to want to stop going in Argentina.
But while La Boca is a total must-see for the street dancing and architecture alone, it has become a lot more expensive thanks to the groups of tourists flooding in every day, so you can expect to pay two to three times more for things in this district than elsewhere in the city.
Meat me there
It’s no secret that Buenos Aires is a city famed for serving up some of the best meat in the world, and while a vegetarian will still find places to dine at in the city, they won’t be in for the same level of culinary treats as their carnivorous friends.
The highlight of the Argentinian week is the asado, a time when large groups of friends and family gather for an all-out meat feast, which is prepared by an obliging Asador, more often than not the man of the house. As a visitor to the city, you probably won’t know an Asador, in which case look no further than La Cabrera in Palermo (www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar). Upon leaving, most people claim this is the best steak they’ve ever eaten, largely because the chefs keep things simple. Forget about carbs and vegetable side orders (although save room for the awesome Volcan de Chocolate cake) and tuck into all the Argentinian beef you can fit in. Just make sure you get there early, as even though BA is a city where eating later in the evening is tradition, even if you turn up at 8.30pm you could have an hour-long wait on your hands.
After dinner – if you can move – it’s time to experience the famed BA nightlife. As you might expect from this pulsating city, a big night out doesn’t kick off until way after midnight, so we’d recommend heading to a bar for a few pre-club drinks. Magdalena’s Party may look pretty unassuming from the outside, but the space is packed with socialising tourists and locals every night of the week (www.magdalenasparty.com). For a more stylish bar, and somewhere to stay well into the wee hours, head to Carnal (www.carnalbar.com.ar). This sophisticated spot boasts a super-cool crowd, and the chilled, early evening vibe transforms into a pumping club when the real party people arrive in the a.m.
After a big night out, a good strong coffee is a morning-after must, and meeting up with friends for a punchy brew, or ‘un café’, is as Argentinian as a lazy afternoon asado. Relax in the quaint little Palermo Viejo café, Oui Oui, with a medialuna croissant, a good strong coffee, and plan where your next crazy night in Buenos Aires will take you.
Trip Notes
The Cementerio de la Recoleta
Slightly morbid, yes, but aside from the fact that this is the resting place of the city’s rich and famous, which means everything is super-elaborate and extremely ornate, it’s also where you’ll find the tomb of Eva Perón. The former first lady of Argentina is buried here and it’s a must visit to get a feel for the history of the city.
www.cementeriorecoleta.com.ar
Polo Lessons
Argentina is famous for having one of the best polo teams in the world, so take advantage of their expertise and book yourself a Puesto Viejo Polo Day. The equine experience will take you out of the city to a countryside estancia, or ranch, where you’ll be given a polo lesson, can take part in a mini match and enjoy a long Argentine lunch and catch a professional game. The polo day cost Dh540, including transport from the city.
www.puestoviejoestancia.com.ar
Gaucho Party
Wondered where the chic DIFC restaurant got its name? Find the answer in BA. Spend a day living the life of an Argentine cowboy, or gaucho, and ride horses, eat traditional foods (we hear the BBQs are out of this world) and dance at the weekly Mataderos market. Locals and tourists alike flock to the market every Sunday, to enjoy the fiesta atmosphere.
www.feriademataderos.com.ar
Stay here
Budget: Che Lulu Trendy Hotel
Bizarre name aside, this kitsch and colourful hotel in the oh-so trendy Palermo district is the perfect choice if you’re looking to enjoy BA by night. The eight-room guesthouse would be an artist’s hotel of choice, and is close to some of the best boutiques, bars and restaurants in the city. Rooms start from Dh100-a-night.
www.luluguesthouse.com
Mid Range: Moreno Hotel Buenos Aires
This glamorous 1920s-style minimalist boutique hotel will transport you back in time with its nostalgic touches and art deco style. Enjoy stunning views of nearby San Francisco church, breakfast on the vast terrace and a glass of wine in the hotel’s chic Aldo’s Vinoteca bar. Rooms start at Dh555.
www.morenobuenosaires.com
Luxury: Four Seasons Buenos Aires
There’s no doubt that for the ultimate in classic luxury, checking into a Four Seasons is the ideal option. This 20th-century French-style mansion is situated in the city’s exclusive La Recoleta district and boasts a selection of bars, a luxe spa and extensive gardens. The hotel’s popular bistro, Le Mistral, serves up contemporary Argentinian cuisine and the Saturday brunch in La Mansión is a must, if only
to see how it measures up to the Dubai tradition.
www.fourseasons.com/buenosaires
Filmed there
The Motorcycle Diaries, Evita, The City Of Your Final Destination, And Soon the Darkness, Seven Years In Tibet, Moonraker, The Informers
Fly there
Emirates flies direct to Buenos Aires, with a stop off in Rio de Janeiro, flights start at Dh9,520, visit emirates.com for more info.
