The best-kept secret on the French Riviera

There aren't many surprises on the Côte d'Azur. You're pretty much guaranteed good weather and the company of thousands of others in pursuit of the same ideal.

The beaches would be fine if not a permanent site of a benign invasion force of sun-lovers.

There are times when the only solution to finding somewhere to swing a cat seems to be to jump on one of the coastline's many yachts — but unless your plan is the theft of a maritime vehicle, this will cost serious money.

Which is why Ile de Bendor is a secret well worth being in on. Even though I had directions from the airport — in my case Marseilles — when the taxi dropped me at the deserted marina in Bandol at 9pm, I had slight misgivings about achieving the final destination.

The only sound was of a flotilla of boats dozing at anchor. A sign at a jetty announced that it was the gateway to Ile de Bendor but it was in darkness — and the big boat tied up to it was clearly not going anywhere.

Welcomed by Zorro

After 15 minutes a small launch appeared. There was little time to settle —seven minutes later we were tying up in the island's tiny harbour.

The reception committee of one comprised a large, hairy, ancient dog called Zorro who lived on the island and was looked after by whoever was around.

I considered asking Zorro the way to my hotel then noticed the Delos was yards away.

The next morning revealed the island in its miniature glory. The buildings which comprise Hotel Delos — built in the Sixties — have a deliberately Venetian air and the effect is mildly reminiscent of Portmeirion, in Wales.

Across the harbour is a row of brightly painted houses which in the past have been artists' studios.

There is a swimming pool but when the Med is only minutes away, the attractions of a confined space would only appeal to those of limited horizons.

Ducking through a gap in the tiny terrace, I came upon a most charming stretch of sand, entirely uninhabited.

The beach faces the mainland, so the stretch of sea between is utterly calm. You could swim to France and back in time for breakfast, not something you can say of many places.

After coffee and croissants, I took a tour of my surroundings, like a castaway surveying the boundaries of his new world.

Paul Ricard, who colonised Bendor and turned it into a centre for the arts, was also a passionate gardener, with the result that every square inch that can support plant life does so, from palm trees to bougainvillaea and tamarisk.

The whole place was designed to resemble a stage set, the decorative ironwork, glasswork and ceramics being created by local artists and craftsmen.

As if to enhance the dreamlike atmosphere of the place, many buildings are empty, including the theatre. At the other end of the island is the Soukana Hotel, complete with nightclub and pool, and also awaiting redevelopment.

Mad whirl of activity

You can tour Bendor in 15 minutes, including the rocks on the wild side from where a diving school operates.

You fetch up again at the Delos which, compared to what has gone before, is an absolutely mad whirl of activity.

The point of being here is that you are part of the French Riviera scene without being in the middle of it.

Those with an urge for the crowded life can be in Bandol within minutes but anyone with a good book and the need to stretch out undisturbed will be content with the sea views.

As I have indicated, there's little to do except relax. The Exposition Universelle des Vins et Spiritueux presently has a “fitting France and the World of Drink'' exhibition.

I can report that this is a very suitable place to drink refreshments, as there is no end of time to sleep them off.

In fact, the entire island experience could be viewed as the
perfect antidote to the mundanities of modern life.

Go there... Ile de Bendor ... From the UAE

Marseilles is one of the nearest international airports to Ile de Bendor.

From Dubai

Air France flies daily via Paris.

Fare from Dh7,000

KLM flies daily via Amsterdam.

Fare from Dh5,510

Lufthansa flies daily via Frankfurt.

Fare from Dh3,850

Alitalia flies daily via Fiumicino.

Fare from Dh4,240

-- Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Tel: 04 4298576