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The Portuguese Arc de Triomphe in the the Neo-Classical Baixa district of Lisbon Image Credit: Rex Features

Full of elegantly decadent charm, the compact, cosy Portuguese capital is an ideal place to explore on a weekend getaway.

Soothing breezes from River Tagus make even the sunniest summer day bearable for walking, while Lisbon's very own natural light playing on the rich texture of old stucco walls can provide some unforgettable snapshots, especially during sunset.

Remember that Lisbon is known as the City of the Seven Hills, which are quite steep and many streets are paved with cobblestones. So, choose your footwear wisely.

Local correspondents help you get the most out of a stay in this capital city that has a warm yesteryear feel to it:

FRIDAY

5pm

Start your trip at one of the city's highest points. The viewpoint at the top of the Edward VII Park offers a commanding view of most of Lisbon you want to see, including the ancient São Jorge Castle and River Tagus.

Have a coffee by the park's lake and stroll down the walkways past greenhouses, with exotic plants down to the Marquis of Pombal square, with an imposing statue of the statesman who rebuilt Lisbon after the Great Earthquake of 1755.

Hit the Avenida Liberdade thoroughfare's tree-shaded promenade, paved with elaborate designs in black and white stones, or choose the broad sidewalks lined with expensive boutiques and numerous, enticing pastry shops and cafés.

6.30pm

On the right-hand side, where the boulevard meets the vast Restauradores Square, take a turn at Calçada da Glória and catch one of Lisbon's elevadores — a cross between a tram and funicular with a bulky lower end to eliminate leaning.

This functioning museum piece will take you up a very steep street leading to the quiet São Pedro de Alcântara belvedere and a small terraced park, complete with a waterfall and a bar.

7pm

Enjoy the view and a glass of chilled refreshment with a "bolinho de bacalhau" codfish croquette.

7.30pm

Up the main street, visit the Principe Real square with a century-old cedar tree that hides a dozen benches in its mighty shade.

Straight and narrow side streets lead towards Tagus River and offer some of Lisbon's most picturesque views.

8pm

Walk down to the posh Garrett street with its expensive shops. Visit the Art Deco A Brasileira café, once frequented by poet Fernando Pessoa, whose bronze statue in his trademark fedora hat sits at a table on the sidewalk.

9pm

Dine at Royale Café (www.royalecafe.com) inside or in its cosy patio. Try octopus with "punched" potatoes or "spiritual codfish".

After 10pm

Check out the nightlife in the Bairro Alto (Upper Town) next door, where dilapidated buildings house dozens of bars with live music, discos and modern art stores.

The revelling switches into high gear around midnight.

SATURDAY

9am

Have breakfast at Café Nicola on Rossio Square or at Confeitaria Nacional on Figueira Square in the Neo-Classical Baixa downtown.

Try the Cornucopia (The Horn of Plenty) pastry.

10am

Visit the majestic Praça de Comércio square by the Tagus and walk up the hill towards the São Jorge Castle with a brief stop at the Sé Cathedral.

The morning sun shining through its vitrage, fills the Gothic cathedral with coloured sparkles.

Have a refreshing drink at the romantic tiled terrace of the Santa Luzia viewpoint before entering the medieval castle.

Make sure you take a walk on the citadel's wall, where the Crusaders once fought the Moors.

The place breathes history and offers an excellent view of Tagus River and both Lisbon's bridges.

Noon

Back at Santa Luzia, take tram No 28 — the creaky veteran yellow vehicle will take you to another belvedere, Graça, where a glass of refreshment can be enjoyed to the sound of live jazz, with a view of Lisbon's red-tiled roofs.

1pm

Hop on to tram No 28 again towards Baixa and then tram No 15 trundling along the Tagus to Belém, where the Jerónimos Monastery towers in all its Manueline splendour.

It was built in the 1500s as a house of prayer for seafarers departing or returning from their long journeys. At that time Portugal was a key pioneer of oceanic exploration.

2pm

Walk towards the river and have a mariscada (grilled crayfish) or crab (sapateira) lunch on the riverfront at the Portugalia restaurant by the Discoveries Monument. After lunch take a stroll to the Belém Tower nearby — said to be one of the world's most elegant fortifications.

3pm

By the Jerónimos, find the shop (there's usually a queue outside) that sells the legendary Belém tarts with custard-like filling.

Have one with a glass of refreshment at a table inside and you will hardly resist taking half a dozen to go.

Take the same tram back to Baixa, shop for souvenirs, then find the Neo-Gothic iron tower of Santa Justa Lift, built by an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel. It will take you to a calm square by the ruins of the Carmo Church for some rest.

7pm

Take a taxi to Largo do Chafariz de Dentro in the Alfama district.

The Museum of Fado (www.museudofado.egeac.pt) there has a restaurant with traditional live fado music.

Some find the genre too mournful but not all fado is tear-jerking. In the Esquina de Alfama restaurant (www.esquinadealfama.com) waiters, dishwashers and the mâitre d' take turns singing a more lighthearted "idler's fado", which some experts say is truer to fado roots. Have a grilled codfish while you are at it.

SUNDAY

9am

Have breakfast at the century-old A Tentadora (The Temptress) café, popular with Lisbonites of all ages.

Then walk down the Rua Domingos Sequeira to the verdant Estrela park, across the road from a beautiful white Baroque basilica, which is also worth visiting.

11am

Follow the Calçada da Estrela downhill until you reach the imposing Neo-Classical São Bento palace — a former monastery where the Portuguese parliament sits. The ceremonial guards standing at the doors allow you to photograph them.

Noon

Take tram No 28 to the Praça de Comércio, go up the Augusta street to the fairytale-like Rossio railway station with its intertwined portals and Celtic motifs.

1pm

For a farewell meal and travel mood, stop at Beira Gare near the railway station and have a "cataplana" dish of cod, shrimp and clams or a "bifana" beef — one of Lisbon's best.