Our butler Rasheed is the embodiment of serenity, giving the tourists a helping hand as they skip off the boat that docks in from Male airport to the main jetty of the lush Soneva Gili resort in the Maldives.

It was an unusually long flight from Dubai, via Colombo, to Male and all of us needed to ensure that we regained our sense of balance on a bobbing boat after stepping off an aeroplane. Talk about contrasting travel arrangements.

Very little could be seen as the speedboat negotiated each wave in pitch-black darkness and we could feel the turbulence in the Indian Ocean caused by the effect of the full moon on the water.

There was little in terms of lighting except for a thin trail on the water caused by the reflection of thousands of stars that switched themselves on and beat a trail on the way to the island of Lankanfushi — the home of Soneva Gili.

As Rasheed directed us around our Water Villa, following a buggy ride from the main jetty, the first thing that struck me was the space — there was lots of it, both indoors and outdoors.

Sheer decadence

Need to relax? Just lie down … here, there and everywhere. It's sheer decadence with the added advantage of having to do nothing which the staff at the hotel can do for you.

The moon slung low, adding some extra shine as Rasheed switched on the light that lit up the deck and spread a glow along the floor of the lagoon on which the Water Villa stood.

A reef shark and a stingray, kept company by a school of zebra fish, lazily negotiated their way past the stilts, perhaps having been disturbed by the sudden illumination.

Soon after, armies of fish, of all shapes, sizes and colours, swam past as if according their guests a formal welcome.

“It is dark now,'' Rasheed reminded us as we stared into the water in awe. “You will find it more beautiful when you get up in the morning.

Don't hesitate to ring me if you need anything. And please remember our policy — no news and no shoes,'' he said softly, loathe to compete with the noise of the Indian Ocean as its waves broke on the atoll 500 metres away.

As we were trying to comprehend the essence of his parting statement, Rasheed slipped away into the darkness.

The next morning we were greeted by a blood-red rising sun that sent piercing rays into the turquoise blue of the coral-filled lagoon floor to create a shimmering palette of its own.

That wasn't the last we saw of Rasheed during our relaxing seven-night stay on the island.

Each time he appeared before us at breakfast to get an idea of what his guests wanted to do, Rasheed epitomised the sense of calm coupled with the high-level efficiency that marks Soneva Gili.

He was not alone. His colleagues in this eco-friendly establishment that is beating a unique path in the world of high-profile resorts, seemed to be consumed by this quality. They were attentive, yet evanescent.

Immeasurable tranquillity is a quality that hangs in the air, the water, the rooms, the restaurants, the spa and on the powdered beaches of the island.

This is its gift to the people who come in from all over the world.

There is no option but to drown yourself in it and lose your orientation with the world.

As one travel writer once put it, “all pleasures at Soneva Gili can be achieved horizontally: swimming, snorkelling, scuba-diving, sun-bathing'' and whatever else takes your fancy.

Intelligent luxury

Intelligent luxury is Soneva Gili's calling card as it gobbles up international awards showered upon it, the most recent from Conde Nast Traveller (UK), for its attention to detail and its environment-friendly policies.

The Water Villa is big enough to house an entire garrison (if one may be permitted such exaggeration) and its facilities are offered in a “practical'' but “optical'' manner.

This encompasses the furniture — the wood imported all the way from New Zealand — to the thoughtful presence of water urns on the jetties for cooling hot feet (remember, no shoes!), bicycles for getting around the resort and refreshing towels soaked in soothing lemongrass perfume whenever you go inside a restaurant or even your own room.

All materials used in the resort are environment-friendly and recyclable.

And if you think the Water Villa isn't big enough, prepare to get lost in the sheer size of the Residences (with an area of 250 square metres); or upgrade to the Crusoe Residences (another 250 square metres); or in a moment of utter madness, the Private Reserve (which is the size of your local town at 1,400 square metres).

The Crusoe Residences and the Private Reserve can be reached by boat. You have the option of sailing down for breakfast, lunch or dinner till 6 in the evening, after which your personalised butler will take you back.

I come to know that Soneva Gili propagates the SLOW Life concept (see box). This is yet another addition to the Soneva concept of business.

Everything is designed in keeping with the local environment. And this permeates right down to their very own organic herb and salad garden.

And of course, there is the luxury and comfort which money can't buy (or perhaps, in this case, it can!).

How so?

Perfect hosts

When you factor in a compliment of 270 highly trained staff — or “hosts'', as they humbly call themselves — allotted to 120 lethargic guests, you are never short of having someone to pamper you.

But the service of the staff alone does not render the guest into a state of total bliss.

The experience on this island is aligned towards longer days and longer nights — or, at the very least, a feeling of this.
The management has awarded itself the luxury of what it refers to as “Soneva time''.

This ensures that they are an hour behind local time at Male and guests on the island have to set their watches to extend their days accordingly.

This is just another of the many simple yet effective sophistications that enhances the Soneva Gili experience.

The management and staff are continuously re-evaluating traditional conventions so as to reward their visitors with an experience covering all the human senses.

The Six Senses Spa on the property (see box) also mirrors this philosophy.

So if you were toying with the idea of being marooned on an island with all the comforts known to man — and having your own Man Friday at your disposal — then getting stranded at Soneva Gili would be one of the better decisions taken in this life.

Go there . . . Malé . . . From the UAE

From Dubai
Emirates flies daily.

Fare from Dh3,770
Qatar Airways flies five days a week.
Fare from Dh2,840

— Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata.
Ph: 04 4380454

The ‘SLOW' Life concept

SUSTAINABLE: Highlights environmental aspects by using natural, recyclable materials.

LOCAL: Highlights the look and feel of the Maldives, its food, décor and nature.

ORGANIC: This trickles from the quality of food and living. Soneva Gili boasts of its own organic vegetable garden. Sixty per cent of its contents are used in their kitchens.

Over 30 kinds of vegetables and 40 kinds of herbs are cultivated.

WHOLESOME: The entire look and feel of the property gives one the sense of integration. One feels comfortable, settled and satisfied.

Pamper the body & soul

The Six Senses Spa offers a wide range of holistic therapies and programmes with internationally trained therapists, holistic wellness instructors and a resident Ayurveda doctor.

Glass floor panels beneath massage tables heighten the experience while a Maldivian sand massage presents yet another refreshing encounter.

Other facilities include five over-water treatment rooms, yoga, tai chi champa, steam rooms, chill rooms, sauna and a fully equipped over-water gymnasium.

A thought for the green

  • All sea water on the island is recycled as drinking water. The water is also mineralised. Soneva Gili also focuses on making itself carbon-free.
  • All energy is gained from carbon-free systems and there are also plans afoot to install deep sea water cooling systems
  • Soneva Gili has implemented and sustained corals in the lagoon which were destroyed by the tsunami in December 2004.

Compass

Soneva Gili is a 20-minute speedboat ride from Male, the capital of the Maldives. The resort is set on a private tropical island of Lankanfushi in the Male Atoll, one of 19 atolls that stretch over 800 kilometres through the Indian Ocean, and one of the 1,190 islands that are the Maldives.