Life & Style | Travel
New Zealand's bounty of surprises
Emirates Holidays takes you to North Island for a fascinating peek into Maori culture, South Island for its adventure sports and Christchurch for its museum
- By Deena Kamel Yousef, Staff Writer
- Published: 00:01 December 19, 2010
- Image Credit: Deena Kamel Yousef/Gulf News
- Cathedral Square and Arts Centre in Christchurch
North Island: Rotorua
The first thing you notice in Rotorua is the stink — a soufflé of rotten eggs and dead bodies. The overpowering smell is sulphur, our driver tells us. We are standing in a city on a volcanic caldera and just as my excitement bubbles on the uniqueness of the location, he tells us that the volcano is 150 years overdue for an eruption. My excitement cools considerably.
Known as "Nature's spa of the South Pacific", Rotorua beckons visitors with arms of steam from its geothermal pools and gurgling geysers.
Mineral baths: Our first stop here is the Polynesian Spa on the shores of Lake Rotorua, turned bluish-white with sulphur. We choose the deluxe area with its four hot mineral pools of alkaline water at temperatures varying from 36C to 42C. The alkaline waters are supposed to have therapeutic and skin-moisturising qualities.
Two natural hot mineral springs supply the water here in nature's original hot tub. Eventually, I brave the hottest of the pools, at 42C, best enjoyed in the shaded grotto, and it is tolerable for about five minutes.
Spiritual understanding: Physically revived, we took a journey into Te Puia for a spiritual understanding of the land. Te Puia is a Maori cultural centre with a living village that demonstrates the Maori way of life and traditions. Rotorua has the biggest population of Maoris in New Zealand and is home to the Te Arawa tribe.
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Shane, our Maori guide, took us through the Te Whakarewarewa Geothermal Valley. My first interaction with Maori culture was a fascinating culinary experience. I watched our chef fish out flax baskets from a boiling alkaline spring pool of clear water, where our lunch was cooked to perfection.
After lunch, an ecofriendly train took us around the valley to a few key stops. The main attraction is the famous Pohutu geyser, the largest in the valley. Awe-inspiring columns of steam gush out of the earth's surface, bellowing at us, carried by the wind.
The Maoris explain the geothermal system in Rotorua through the story of the Pathway of Fire. Legend has it that Ngatoroirangi, a revered spiritual leader and explorer, arrived from Hawaiki to New Zealand on his canoe 600 years ago. Unaccustomed to the cold weather, he faced great peril during the snow storms and called upon his sisters for help. They sent him the fire goddesses Te Pupu and Te Hoata, who travelled underwater. Every time they burst out of the earth's surface to look for him, they left fire, creating the boiling springs, geysers and mudpools of today.
Clay and oil is paint: From the geysers, we moved to mudpools, a result of acidic gases and steam that decompose minerals and form a clay called kaolin. The Maoris use this clay, mixed with shark liver oil, to make a laquer for painting their houses. Then we visited the Kiwi House, where we met the endangered bird that gives New Zealanders their name.
Art from wood: Later we headed to the national carving and weaving schools, where traditional arts are passed on to the younger generations through workshops.
Treetops Lodge: Making our way to our lodge for the night, we took a 40-minute drive to Treetops Lodge. The drive itself, through the green, tree-topped mountain, was beautiful. Horses and sheep frisked about grassy hills. On the lodge estate, we glimpsed pheasants, peacocks fanning out their royal tails and occasionally a deer.
In the evening, we had an excellent dinner in the shared dining room. If you make a request in advance, you can have a customised halal meal.
I woke up the next morning and soaked in the greenery, the calm stillness and the bird calls. Then I opted to explore part of the estate's 40 kilometres of trails. Our guide drove 15 minutes into the forest and we walked the rest of the way to Bridal Veil Falls.
Rotorua Museum: The last stop in the town was the Rotorua Museum, an architectural icon and New Zealand's most-photographed building. This used to be Rotorua's Bath House, the centre of the spa tourism that boomed in the early 1900s and the government's first investment in the tourism industry. The bathhouse water was piped in from thermal springs to private bath and massage rooms.
Another highlight is the documentary showing the eruption of Tarawera Mountain in June 1886 — one of the worst natural disasters in New Zealand's history. It destroyed the famous Pink and White Terraces and killed 120 people. The theatre seats rock violently to mimic the effect of the eruption.
We then climbed to the top of the museum for a view of the city, the Government Gardens, Lake Rotorua and the Sulphur Bay. The museum collection itself was not very rich or large. The staff were volunteers who did not know answers to our questions.
South Island: Queenstown
Historically, Queenstown was a gold-mining city and the minute I saw it, I knew I had struck gold.
Overlooking Lake Wakatipu, or the Sleeping Giant, as the Maoris call it, Queenstown is flanked by the towering snow-capped peaks of the aptly named Remarkables. They reminded me of the mountains in Sinai, Egypt.
My first glimpse of Queenstown was an incredible sight. The clear blue lake, the earth-brown mountains and the stretching fingers of green peninsula shimmering in the sunlight.
The city is only seven kilometres from the airport and the holiday homes we saw on the lake were going for a fortune.
Queenstown was like no other city we visited in New Zealand. It combined an eerily beautiful landscape that invited introspection and meditation with a reputation for being the "adventure capital of the world" and a city high on adrenalin. The most frequent question I was asked in New Zealand was whether I had gone bungee jumping or sky-diving in Queenstown. Every time, I hung my head in shame and said no.
Glade, our driver, was another Queenstown resident who, bizarrely, did not partake in the lemming rush to throw oneself from a high point.
Skyline Gondola: The closest I came to sampling Queenstown's vertical amusements was a ten-minute ride on the Skyline Gondola to the top of the mountain. This was only a five-minute drive from the St Moritz Hotel downtown, where we stayed. Once I overcame the rocking motion and the occasional sudden stops, the city beneath us unfolded as we ascended 730 metres. The ride was worth the visit to the observation deck at the top, with views of Coronet Peak and the Remarkables, Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu and Cecil and Walter Peaks.
Milford Sound: The next morning, our trip to Milford Sound — the true highlight of Queenstown and our trip — was cancelled because of the weather. Make sure you check in advance with your tour company that the weather is suitable to go. Instead, a colleague and I jumped on a 4x4 safari ride to Glenorchy, a captivating landscape where much of the Lord of the Rings (LOTR) films were shot. It also featured more recently in the first two Narnia films.
Overlooking Remarkables, Cecil and Water peaks, the lake is 420 metres deep and rises 110 metres above sea level. The mountains tower 2,000 metres, our guide told us.
The road leading to where Eisengard was filmed in LOTR, is an extremely bumpy one, so avoid a heavy breakfast. X-Men was also filmed here.
We stopped for a short picnic of hot chocolate and cakes and talk turned to the love-hate relationship between Kiwis and Aussies, the fact that you could walk barefoot in New Zealand because the animals here did not bite and were not poisonous, and the relaxed airport security.
"Why would anyone want to do anything to us?" was the common explanation we got from the locals.
Bird's-eye view: Getting to Milford Sound was an adventure in itself. We took a light aircraft that flew us across the mountainous terrain of Fiordland over Mount Aspiring National park. A dramatic landscape revealed itself below. Glacial lakes changing colour with their depth, winding dark valleys and proud summits with laurels of mist unfolded before us.
The landing was the worst bit, as we teetered on to the runway. I crouched on the gravel beneath the wing, relieved to be back on level ground.
We were not on land for long. We took a boat cruise and journey into Milford Sound, which, as it turned out, was a fjord and not a sound at all. Everyone we met in Queenstown had recommended this trip but I was not prepared for what I saw. It was stunning.
Setting sail: The mountains here change mood and character with the weather. We were greeted by rising mountains and lapis lazuli waters. Standing at the top observation deck of the boat for the best view, a strong wind pushed back against us.
We passed by Mitre Peak, which rises to an amazing 1,682 metres and is believed to be one of the world's highest mountains to rise directly out of the sea. I watched carefully for shapes as our captain pointed out the lion and elephant rock formations.
Rejuvenated by the trip, I was ready to face the bumpy flight to Queenstown.
St Moritz Hotel: The St Moritz Hotel, where we stayed for two days, has a chic, modern, lodge feel and has hosted many Bollywood and Hollywood stars. The senior crew of I Hate Luv Storys, Ian McKellan and Andre Agassi have stayed here.
But remember, this was an expensive city. Still, the energetic vibe of this town and its soothing scenery are worth every cent.
Christchurch
Call me an art snob but the highlight of Christchurch for me was the Ron Mueck exhibition at the Christchurch Art Gallery. If Rotorua was the Maori cultural capital and Queenstown the adventure city, Christchurch was their artistic cousin.
Ron Mueck exhibition: The Ron Mueck exhibition had just come to New Zealand for the first time, exclusively in Christchurch, after touring in Melbourne and Brisbane.
Mueck, an Aussie realist artist and sculptor, had already gained international stardom in London in 1996 with his life-size sculptures of people made of silicon, fibreglass and hair. The first piece that struck me was Dead Dad, which gained Mueck fame.
The sculpture of a small, naked man with bluish skin lay tenderly on the ground with an exhausted expression. Dead Dad, like other pieces, expressed the vulnerability of human beings and evoked a sense of sympathy. The size of the sculpture was related to the stage of life they were in. In sculptures such as Dead Dad and Old Woman in Bed, people were departing this life and mournfully getting smaller in size. On the other hand, the sculpture Pregnant Woman, towered above us because she marked the beginning of life.
"The title [of the pieces] are general because we're invited to bring in our own story and connect with them imaginatively," said Justin Paton, senior curator at the gallery. "The spectator shares in the story."
Botanic Gardens: When I managed to peel myself away from the art gallery, I took a short walk to the Botanic Gardens — after all, Christchurch was known as the Garden City — and strolled there leisurely.
Christchurch is home to the third-largest metropolitan park, after Central Park in New York and Hyde Park in London. The 165-hectare Hagley Park is situated here.
Tram journey: We took a charming ride on-board the vintage trams that journeyed around the central city. Stylish, romantic and reminiscent of old-world charm, I half expected Frank Sinatra or Roger Moore to climb on-board in tuxedoes. The ride was a pleasure and a good introduction to the city landmarks: The Avon River, the historic Cathedral Square and the Arts Centre. Though well-served, the food on-board was not very good but the point was to enjoy the intimate, softly lit decor and the city tour.
Never on Sunday: When planning your trip, make sure you don't arrive in Christchurch on a Sunday afternoon. Most stores and cafés on High Street, the main vein of the city, are closed after 5.30pm.
Signs of the 7.1 Richter earthquake that hit Christchurch in September were still apparent in the city: road reconstructions, building repairs and a city-wide programme to "fill the gaps".
Christchurch felt more English than English cities and nowhere was that more apparent than in Mona Vale, where we went punting on the Avon River.
High tea: Given a choice between lunch and high tea, we had a fine meal on the river banks, amid 5.5 hectares of landscaped gardens and lawns. It was a picture-book English tea party and I felt like a Jane Austen heroine, half expecting Mr Darcy to strut past (alas, he did not).
After a glass of cranberry and lime juice, we clambered into the little boat with low, reclining seats. It was idyllic: the tranquil waters, the weeping willows and our dashing puntsman Louis, dressed in Edwardian uniform of boater hat and vest. He told us the punt is a popular spot for marriage proposals and that the area had seen many weddings. It was easy to see why. Our lunch here was equally delightful, as we admired the historic homestead and the waddling ducks at our feet.
Family activities: Christchurch also had some ideal family activities. The city is the official gateway to Antarctica and a visit to the International Antarctic Centre can be fun for kids.
At the 4-D theatre, we experienced the journey into the Antarctic with a camera crew in a 3-D movie with 4-D special effects, that included snow, water sprays, wind, bubbles and even snow movement. It was good fun but got annoying when we had to wipe our glasses clean six times in a row.
Hagglund: I braved my motion sickness and fear of heights and jumped on the Hagglund, the genuine terrain vehicle used in Antarctica to transport people and goods.
We were promised a short and adrenalin-pumping ride but ours seemed pretty tame — even by my standards — when we shot through mounds, a crevasse and over a pond. The terrified look on my face may have convinced our driver to take it easy on us.
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