For decades it was shrouded in mystery. But more than 20 years after the curtain lifted, the former Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR) still remains unseen by many holidaymakers.
Ukraine, smaller, more affordable and less overwhelming than Russia, is a perfect introduction to Eastern Europe.
Its capital Kiev is a stunning mix of European cosmopolitanism and Orthodox tradition dotted with constant reminders of the country's former Soviet history. The drama and grandeur of the neo-Baroque buildings stand alongside modern, glass towers and turn-of-the-century mansions — many of which have been converted into commercial buildings. At every turn, the city offers another sight to behold.
From the moment you step off the aircraft, the cool, crisp, fresh air is a welcome change from the often stifling heat of the Arabian Peninsula.
Now that flydubai has introduced direct flights to three Ukranian cities (they took me too) — Kiev, Donetsk and Kharkiv — there's no excuse not to visit this storied, rich and beautiful country. It is a perfect introduction to the European east and the Slavic world.
Lush spaces
The city sits upon seven mountains along the storied Dnieper River in the northern part of the country. One of the most striking features is its immense greenery. Approaching the city centre from the airport, the sides of the streets are forested. The core of the city is no different. There are parks and green spaces at every turn. With autumn just starting to set in, it really is the most beautiful time of year to visit. The trees in the city will be starting to turn rich shades of red, orange and yellow. The colour offers a depth and richness to the city's architectural beauty that cannot be matched any other time of year.
The historical area of Andriyivsky Descent (which means Andrew's Descent in English) near St Andrew's Church, is lined with vendors and is the perfect place to pick up some traditional Ukranian art, chess sets, souvenirs and jewellery. The local currency is the hryvnia (pronounced grievna) and Dh1 will get you about 2.18 hryvnia.
Unlike many marketplaces you might be used to from your travels, you can feel free to browse through the items on offer without being harassed by the salespeople. But keep in mind that they'll often be willing to strike a deal with you, so here's the place to put your bargaining skills to the test. Remember that this is Europe, so although you can strike a deal, don't expect an 80 per cent reduction.
After the end of Soviet rule in the country, Independence Square (known as Maidan Nezalezhnosti in Ukrainian) became a hotbed for political activity and engagement. It was here that the Orange Revolution protesters gathered; demanding honest democracy following allegations of vote-rigging, election fraud, voter intimidation and corruption.
Buy an ice-cream cone or a cold drink and take a stroll around the square. Here, in the heart of the city, you will see local families, teenagers with their friends and the odd tourist basking in the sunlight, playing in the fountains, enjoying their freedom.
By night, the area is packed with the partygoers filling street cafés, restaurants and clubs. The city even has one of Dubai's favourite restaurants and nightspots, the Buddha Bar. Watch your step as you negotiate the cobbled streets in your high heels.
Orthodox leanings
A trip to Kiev is not complete without a visit to some of the city's stunning Orthodox churches. Even if you are not a huge Orthodox history buff, the sight of these structures is truly something to behold.
Most stunning of all is St Michael's golden domed monastery. It is located on a hill above the Dnieper River near the Saint Sophia Cathedral (another must-see in my books). St Michael's is a beautiful sky blue accented with white facade, and magnificent golden onion-shaped domes on top.
The interior of the church is covered in paintings depicting religious stories, designed especially for those who did not know how to read. It is very peaceful inside. A soft hymn sung by a lone voice is heard, people pray and the smell of incense lingers.
You won't want to miss St Andrew's Church. It is adorned with green rooftops and golden ornamentation that is sure to amaze. Legend has it, before the city was founded, St Andrew had a prophecy that a beautiful city would be built at this spot. Sure enough, it was.
People-watching
Nearby is Podil's popular pedestrian area. The park-like setting is filled with statues and metal sculptures, many of which are in the shape of cats — one of the most popular animals in the city. Interestingly, you'll find cat monuments in various places, dotted around the city. I'm told that there are more than 20, but eventually, they want to build at least 100.
Grab a piping-hot coffee from the truck that often parks along the side of the street and do some serious people-watching.
Another great spot for people-watching is Volodymyr's Hill. It's a huge park at the top of one of the city's many hills that looks down to the Dnieper River and it's beaches below across to the other side of the city. There's even a gondola to take you to the foot of the hill.
Sweet-savoury memories
Any holiday is incomplete without trying some local cuisine. Having grown up with many Ukranian specialities I feel like I can speak with some authority when I say: Ukranian food is rich, comforting, filling and incredibly delicious. You don't want to miss out on vereneky — dumplings filled with various sweet or savoury fillings such as potato and cheese, mushrooms, meat, cherries or blueberries. Don't miss the hearty warmth that a bowl of borche (red beet soup) offers, especially if you visit in the autumn or spring. Definitely give cabbage rolls a try. They're made of cooked cabbage stuffed with rice and beef, often served with tomato sauce — delicious!
Must-see, must do
- St Michael's monastery
- St Andrew's Church
- Volodymyr's Hill
- Podil's park and colourful statues
- Independence Square
- Saint Sophia Cathedral and square
- Hunt for bargains at Andriyivsky Descent
- Check out the public beaches along the Dnieper River
- Ukraine is known for its superior classical arts — go to the opera or the ballet
- Get lost on foot — Traffic can be quite congested so make the most of your legs and the beautiful surroundings. Every street will offer something interesting to see or a historical building to admire.
Other hotspots in Ukraine
- Ski the Carpatians of Crimea
- Enjoy the resorts and beaches of the Black Sea in Odessa
- Visit Donetsk for a Uefa Cup match (flydubai flies there direct!)
Tips
- Make sure you check your visa requirements before buying your ticket.
- Change money once you arrive. Banks and change bureaus will exchange all major currencies including US dollars and euros.
- Check the weather before you go. Remember, the winter can be quite cold so if you're going then, pack appropriate clothing.
- In my opinion, autumn is the most gorgeous time of year to visit. All the trees are turning gorgeous shades of yellow, orange and red. The forested city really comes alive. Just make sure you have a light jacket and a scarf with you. The wind can be biting!
- When entering religious buildings including churches, modesty should be observed. Avoid short pants or skirts and sleeveless tops that show your shoulders (men and women). If you are wearing a sleeveless top, bring a scarf or a shawl to cover your shoulders. Some churches will ask that you wear a scarf to cover your head as well.
- Carry a Russian or Ukranian language phrasebook. Many people (especially in Kiev) know some English but little gestures in the local language can go a long way.
- Ukranian food is varied and delicious. There will be more than enough to suit everyone's taste. Meat and vegetable dishes are abundant. However, make sure you ask about the meat dish before diving in.
- Football fans rejoice! flydubai now has direct flights to Donetsk — one of the host cities for next year's Uefa Cup.
Visa
As previously published in Gulf News, according to the decrees of the President of Ukraine, a visa-free regime has been established for citizens of the following countries:
- Austria
- Belgium
- Canada
- Cyprus
- Czech Republic
- Denmark
- Estonia
- Finland
- France
- Germany
- Greece
- Hungary
- Ireland
- Italy
- Japan
- Latvia
- Lithuania
- Luxembourg
- Malta
- Poland
- Portugal
- Principality of Andorra
- Principality of Liechtenstein
- Principality of Monaco
- Republic of Iceland
- Slovakia
- Slovenia
- Spain
- Sweden
- The Holy See (State of the Vatican City)
- The Netherlands
- The Swiss Confederation
- US
- UK
If you are not a citizen of any of these countries, you can contact the Ukrainian Consulate in the UAE and they will give you details on the application process.
The process is fairly simple, where applicants are typically required to present an application, a copy of their passport, a passport-sized photo and an invitation letter (declaring your intent to travel to Ukraine) which can be obtained from any Ukrainian tour operator.
Contact the embassy in Abu Dhabi at emb_ae@mfa.gov.ua or embua@embukr.ae or on 02-6327586. You can find them online at www.oae.mfa.gov.ua/oae/en/ also.
kiev, ukraine
FLY... Flydubai
From Dubai one-way fare starts from Dh715. Or try Aerosvit Airlines, from Dubai for Dh1,810.
— Information courtesy the Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 3492886
