Different face of Bali

We knew Bali wasn't only about beaches, restaurants and T-shirt shops.

So on our first visit there in 1991, my wife and I left our hotel to explore a culture-rich region in the countryside, known for its galleries and artisan workshops.

Freddi and I have been collecting folk art for about 30 years and our house is decorated with some 2,000 objects from Asia, Africa, Europe and Latin America.

We never cared much for masks, though, until that summer morning when we met Ida Bagus Anom in a village near Ubud, Bali's cultural capital.

Dance of mythology

Ushering us into his studio, Anom strapped on a mask that depicted a witch with long fangs and a menacing scowl.

Then he danced, flailing his arms and making scary noises, demonstrating how the mask was used in the traditional Barong dance, which tells the story of a mythological character considered the king of spirits.

Anom's masks were finely carved and painted, with flourishes that included horsehair moustaches and mother-of-pearl teeth. We bought six and suddenly had a new obsession.

Seventeen years and 250 masks later, we returned recently with our 15-year-old daughter, Gabriela, checking into Ubud's Hotel Tjampuhan & Spa.

After breakfast the first morning, we hired a car (at $6, or Dh22, an hour) to take us to Mas, the village where we had met Anom.

Googling him, I had learnt Anom is revered as a traditional mask dancer and a mask maker. I also discovered he has appeared in a National Geographic show about Bali.

As with many artisans, Anom learnt his craft from his father, who, in turn, learnt it from his father.

We found Anom in the same spot as in 1991, sitting on a covered patio near a pile of wood shavings, carving and chatting with assistants.

At 56, he didn't seem to remember us. But we introduced ourselves and told him how much we had enjoyed our masks.

Breaking into a huge smile, he took us back to his studio where the walls were covered with masks, all for sale.

“You'll see that some of the styles and designs have changed since you were here last,'' Anom told us.

I had noticed. Anom had fewer traditional masks depicting characters such as kings, queens and prime ministers, who play key roles in Balinese dances.

He explained that while he still produces traditional masks for local dance troupes, his focus now is on what has greater appeal for foreigners.

“Like this one,'' said Anom, strapping on a mask depicting a yawning clown. “And this one,'' he said, turning himself into a green, bug-eyed frog.

“Masks are like psychotherapy,'' Anom said. “You put them on and you feel different.''

“I put 40 coats of paint on my masks,'' Anom continued. “All my masks are made from pule, a wood that's light so the masks won't be heavy to put on.''

Furthered by demand

Masks have been essential elements of Balinese rituals for centuries. Mexican painter Miguel Covarrubias said masks used in the Barong dance, for example, “have great power in themselves and are kept out of sight in a special shed in the death temple of the village.

They are wrapped in cloth that insulates their evil vibrations and are uncovered only when in use, when the performer-medium is in a trance and under the control of a priest.''

In Bali, craftsmen such as Anom could disappear if their work isn't embraced by new generations.

When I asked him about the future of the art on the island, he said: “We'll be OK. There are younger people who are carving. There's also demand from tourists.''

Tradition comes knocking

What to do

Traditional shows with masked dancers can be found almost every night in Ubud, Bali's cultural capital. The outdoor setting at the Ubud Palace, still home to the local royal family, is unbeatable.

Buy tickets (about $9, or Dh33) in advance. Ubud is also known for galleries that sell textiles and paintings by local and expatriate artists.

Mask shopping: Ubud's central market offers some mass-produced examples; so bargain hard.

For the finest work, hire a taxi by the hour and browse through the workshops in Mas, the nearby village known for its woodcarvers.

Most drivers know how to find master mask maker Ida Bagus Anom on the main drag in.

Go there ... Bali

From the UAE ... From Dubai

Package per person includes economy class flight on Malaysian Airlines; 3 nights stay in a deluxe room at the Ritz Carlton Bali including breakfast.
Fares starts from Dh5,820

Singapore Airlines flies daily via Singapore.
Fare from Dh4,150

Malaysian Airlines flies daily via Kuala Lumpur.
Fare from Dh4,010

— Information courtesy:
The Holiday Lounge by Dnata.
Ph: 04 4298576

Where to stay

The lushly landscaped Hotel Tjampuhan & Spa has thatched-roof rooms ranging from $103 to $212 (Dh378 to Dh779), taxes and service charge included.

The latter rate gets you the two-storey bungalow of the late German artist Walter Spies. Reserve several months or more in advance.

For more information on Ubud hotels, visit www.ubudhotelsassociation.com/members.html

Where to eat

Be it day or night, it is fun prowling Ubud's main streets, checking out restaurant menus.

There are dozens of choices. We especially liked the Indonesian and international menu at Café Lotus, which overlooks a lotus pond.