I'll attribute it to being a symptom of living a long time in the bone-dry Emirates, but here I am, several months after my first trip to Bali, and one of the things I remember most fondly is the rain.
The drizzle. Mist. Dampness in the air. Great droplets thundering down. It was wet, just a little wild (hello, monkeys!) — and perfect.
It helped, of course, that I was experiencing this downpour not only on the enchanting island of Bali but while staying in that jewel in its crown, the resort created by Italian jewellery company Bvlgari, the second in their hospitality portfolio after a Milan city hotel.
Enchanting journey
Located on the southern tip of the island, in Uluwatu, the hotel reached by a 40-minute transfer past the numerous statues and temples that are a key feature of this mainly Hindu island's culture, through lush greenery and along tiny roads that coil up a mountain. It does take some time but that's the price of the luxurious seclusion that the Bvlgari's got in store for you.
I hadn't expected rain — as we flew from Kuala Lumpur after connecting from Dubai, I looked out the window to see little chains of islands below us, the sea around them glistening like tiny, brilliant sapphires in the sunlight. But upon landing in Bali, where they had just had a mid-morning shower, the air was fresh but warm and sunlight sparkled on the masses of foliage. If I had to choose a gem, well, with apologies to Ireland, we were decidedly in emerald country.
Arrival at the Bvlgari is as much of an experience as your stay and I would recommend factoring in at least half an hour in your itinerary just to pick your jaw up off the floor. You're first greeted not in a hotel lobby but in an open-sided wood and stone pavilion. Climb the stairs as staff proffer damp towels (Expect many, many more of these during your stay — it became an almost running joke. Just how dirty did they think my hands were?) and a welcome refreshment.
It's almost as if they want to distract you from the sight of the ocean as you reach the top. In front of me, around me and stretching beyond any distance my mind could conceive, was a vast, writhing, slate-coloured sea — and a dark blue sky threatened by clouds.
The staff apologised for the aforementioned rain (which had ceased) and I told them the rain made it even more spectacular, which they didn't seem to believe until I told them I was British, following which they seemed to accept that an appreciation for precipitation was possible.
The villas
Of course, with the entire resort spread out along the sloping cliff below, there's no time to be wasted gazing at the incredible views — there'll be plenty of that later. Let the staff buggy you to your personal villa, one of 59 in the resort, each one nestled in more of that lush foliage, with a discreet carved gate in the traditional Balinese style, serving as a secluded entrance.
Quaint over fancy
No fancy electronic key cards here — just a chunky, weighty key and fob to unlock your sanctuary. Pass through your gate and — guess what — you're still outside. With such beautiful surroundings, to attempt to do anything other than encourage you to spend time outdoors would be counter-intuitive — something the renowned Italian architect of the Bvlgari, Antonio Citterio and Partners, has clearly taken on-board. Hence your "living room", the first area you enter in the villa, is outdoors, overlooking the ocean far below.
Patio furniture it ain't. Large couches and armchairs, packed with locally crafted cushions, take up one side of the space, while the rest of the "room" (under a high thatched roof held up by red wood pillars) is dedicated to a dining area, also crafted in that sombre timber.
Keep walking and you'll emerge from under the thatched roof on to your cliff-edge deck, where a small plunge pool gurgles and two loungers invite you to indulge in some seriously luxurious time-wasting.
The indoors pays as much tribute to the environment surrounding it without simply becoming a tent.
Siesta's abode
My one-bedroom villa was divided into two large rooms by a dark wood hallway-and-dressing room and each room was surrounded on three sides with floor-to-ceiling glass doors, most of which open up. In the bedroom, gauzy curtains float in front of the sea-view windows, making it a tough call between the wide, high bed, the chaise longue or the outside deck for lounging time. I recommend a nap on each at some point during your stay.
The bathroom, at the back of the residence, is also glassed in but looks on to the stone walls and horticulture that enclose the villa.
It's as big as the bedroom and as stylish, with a large black stone bathtub in the centre, incense sticks arranged nearby and a dressing table with Bvlgari's Green Tea-scented cosmetics.
It's impossible to pick a favourite bit of the villa because it is perfect. My only issue would be with the state-of-the-art television/music/DVD system, which I could not master. It's complicated for a guest to master in a short amount of time — unless they have something similar at home, which then again, many of the clients dropping $800 (Dh2,939) a night here may well do.
My advice? Don't try to turn on the outside world. With the Indian Ocean playing in the background, it's all the soundtrack you need.
The Bvlgari Bali is an explorer's dream. However, while some may be content with relaxing by the pools (there is a large one in the centre of the resort, with an accompanying bar) or getting Bvlgari-brand facials in the stunning spa, it's really worth taking a stroll along the little pathways and wandering down to the incredible beach, wide and virtually empty of human life, save a staffer ready with loungers, towels and chilled water — a luxury Robinson Crusoe moment. With the hotel perched on a cliff 150 metres above the ocean, getting there is something of an adventure: A cable car-cum-lift takes guests up and down the vertical cliffside. It's not for the faint-hearted but is secure.
Meet the locals
My villa was in the third row of villas, so I was halfway down the slope, with two rows of villas below me. There's no peeping Tom-ery at play here — rest assured that the villas are constructed in such a fashion as to be completely private, even when looked down on from above (that being said, I was thoroughly surprised and displeased to find two resort workmen high up on a wall next to my bathroom about 20 minutes after my arrival, with no warning).
The only intruders you are likely to face, and there are warnings about leaving any food around, are the resident monkeys. While a couple of my fellow travellers, despite being with a child, welcomed the constant presence of primates on their deck and in their pool, I have to admit it frightened the daylights out of me and I had constant fears of finding myself going mano-a-mano with a baboon over the contents of the minibar. Luckily for me, they appeared to share my fears and never set a paw in my villa.
Meet the expert
Explore spoke to Alejandro Hebling, the general manager of the Bvlgari Bali, about his favourites in the resort.
What is the best thing about Bvlgari Bali?
It's the mix of three elements: the unique location, the blend of traditional Balinese style with dramatic contemporary Italian design and the variety of services that have been crafted with the attention to quality that has always distinguished Bvlgari creations. The resort reflects a contemporary interpretation of the traditional Balinese design while conveying the distinctive Bvlgari Italian style. The layout and design also incorporate the culture and natural elements.
What makes the resort ‘Bvlgari'?
The distinctive, bold and contemporary Italian style typical of Bvlgari which is reflected in the resort's design concept. All of the hotel's services and amenities are crafted with the same attention to quality and detail that has always distinguished Bvlgari creations. They express a new concept of luxury, no longer ostentatious and dramatic but meant as a research of the maximum quality, authenticity and attention to detail.
What are your must-have dishes at Sangkar and Il Ristorante?
At Sangkar, do not miss the nasi goreng with lobster tail, wagyu beef, Indonesian wok-seared rice and fried egg. Nasi goreng, an Indonesian favourite among Nusantara cuisine, has been brought to its highest level by our executive chef Andrew Skinner, one of the greatest experts in the Asian culinary tradition, who offers our guests a creative kind of cuisine.
At Il Ristorante, I would recommend saffron risotto with asparagus and scallops scented with a Balinese five-spice blend, and a fillet of sea bass with mint and coriander potato chutney and a lime-basil emulsion. Chef Andrea Ferrero's menu is the fruit of a combination of Italian and Balinese ingredients and chef Ferrero's long experience in the finest restaurants in the world.
What's your ‘dream day' at the resort?
Breakfast in the outside lounge area next to the plunge pool with outstanding views of the ocean and the sound of the waves.
In the morning a luxurious treatment at our spa. Our spa menu is designed to offer a series of complete treatments that integrate Asian and European approaches: the Ayurvedic Balinese ritual, facial treatments, body wraps and massages. Lunch at La Spiaggia, the small restaurant located under the cliff, in the middle of lush and unspoilt nature.
Afternoon at our white sand beach between the cliff and the water's edge.
Refreshments at the bar, next to the infinity pool, at sunset. Dinner at Il Ristorante or at the Sangkar restaurant.
Have you hosted any celebrities at the resort?
Many international celebrities have chosen our resort for their holidays, because here they find a very discreet ambience. The landscape and the shape of the resort ensure maximum privacy.
Villa prices
Prices from $800 (Dh2,939) per night for an Ocean View Villa. The Bvlgari Villa, sleeping six, with a pool and garden, from $6,700 (Dh24,610) per night.
Visit www.bvlgarihotels.com
A long way down
Don't miss a treatment at the Spa, where local customs (Bali, of course, is world-famous for its massage) and international style work together to leave you thoroughly soothed. I tried a facial using Bvlgari's own brand of cosmetics, all of which are based on Gem Essence, an antioxidant ingredient derived from — what else? — gemstones. The very gentle range has a focus on protecting the skin and on enhancing radiance and luminosity, so you can leave the resort glowing inside and out, as I did. Take time to check out the entrance of the spa, an antique hand-carved gateway, and enjoy a ginger tea in the sea-view post-treatment loungers — try to time it with sunset if possible, for a little extra glow.
Hit the spa
While you're at the Bvlgari Bali's beach, you'll find a small restaurant, La Spiaggia, just up the stairs to the lift, serving pizzas and light dishes, although it was not open when I visited. There are plenty of other dining options at the resort — from the signature Italian restaurant Il Ristorante to the Indonesian Sangkar, both of which serve delicate, creative takes on local dishes and Italian fine dining — each in their own unique setting. Dine at Sangkar under a thatched roof, with huge lanterns dangling above you, while Il Ristorante plays with the theme of water, as so much of the resort does, with a long pond in the middle of the dining area sparkling with floating candles - it's magical and impossibly romantic. The vast breakfast buffet - and light lunches, such as a wagyu burger I tucked into on my first day - are served in the poolside restaurant set on the cliff.
Top cuisine
FLY... Qatar Airways
From Dubai to Denpasar via Doha for Dh3,555
Or try Malaysian Airlines, from Dubai to Denpasar
via Kuala Lumpur for Dh2,675
— Information courtesy the Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 3492886
