FRIDAY
5pm: Start your trip at one of the city's highest points — the viewpoint at the top of the Edward VII Park — which offers a commanding view of most of Lisbon you want to see, including the ancient Sao Jorge Castle and the Tagus River.
Have a coffee by the park's lake and stroll down the paths past greenhouses with exotic plants down to the Marquis of Pombal square with an imposing statue of the statesman who rebuilt Lisbon after the Great Earthquake of 1755.
Hit the Avenida Liberdade thoroughfare's tree-shaded promenade paved with elaborate designs in black and white stones or choose the broad pavements that are lined with expensive boutiques and numerous, delicious-smelling pastry shops and cafés. Portugal is paradise for those with a sweet tooth.
6.30pm: On the right-hand side where the boulevard meets the vast Restauradores Square, take a turn at Calcada da Gloria and catch one of Lisbon's elevadores — a cross between a tram and funicular, with a bulky lower end to eliminate leaning.
This functioning museum piece will take you up a very steep street to the quiet Sao Pedro de Alcantara belvedere and a tiny terraced park, which comes complete with a waterfall and a bar.
7pm: Enjoy the view and a glass of chilled refreshment and a bolinho de bacalhau, or codfish croquette.
7.30pm: Up the main street, visit the Principe Real square with a century-old cedar tree that hides at least a dozen benches in its mighty shade. Straight and narrow side streets, with antique wall-mounted lamps, lead towards the Tagus River and offer some of Lisbon's most picturesque views.
8pm: Walk down to the posh Garrett street with its expensive shops. Pop into the Art Deco café A Brasileira, a place that was once frequented by poet Fernando Pessoa, whose bronze statue in his trademark fedora hat sits at a table on the pavement.
9pm: Dine at Royale Café (www.royalecafe.com/english/home.htm), inside or on its cosy patio. Try octopus with "punched" potatoes or "Spiritual Codfish", which is brought from the Ribatejo region.
After 10pm: Check out the nightlife in the Bairro Alto (Upper Town) next door, where dilapidated buildings house dozens of taverns with live fado music, discos and modern-art stores. The revelling switches into high gear around midnight.
SATURDAY
9am: Have breakfast at Café Nicola on Rossio Square or at Confeitaria Nacional on Figueira Square in the Neo-Classical Baixa downtown. Try the Cornucopia pastry.
10am: Visit the majestic Praca de Comercio square by the Tagus River and walk up the hill towards the Sao Jorge Castle. Don't forget to take a brief stop at the Se Cathedral.
The morning sun shining through its vitrage fills the Gothic cathedral with coloured sparkles.
Have a refreshment on the romantic tiled terrace of the Santa Luzia viewpoint before entering the medieval castle.
Make sure you take a walk on the citadel's wall, where the Crusaders once fought the Moors. The place breathes history and offers an unparalleled view of the Tagus River and both of Lisbon's bridges.
Noon: Back at Santa Luzia, take tram No 28 — the creaky veteran yellow tramcart will take you to another belvedere, Graca, where you can enjoy the sound of live jazz in summer with a view of Lisbon's red-tiled roofs.
1pm: Hop on tram 28 again towards Baixa and then on tram 15 along the Tagus to Belem, where the Jeronimos Monastery towers in all its Manueline splendour. It was built in the 1500s as a house of prayer for seafarers departing or returning from long journeys when Portugal was a key pioneer of oceanic exploration.
2pm: Walk towards the river and have a mariscada (grilled crayfish) or crab (sapateira) lunch on the riverfront at the Portugalia restaurant by the Monument to the Explorers.
After lunch take a stroll to the Belem Tower nearby — which is considered by many as one of the most elegant fortifications in the world.
3pm: By the Jeronimos, find the shop (there's usually a queue outside) that sells a Lisbon favourite — Belem tarts with custard-like filling. Have one with a glass of refreshment at a table inside and you'll want to take another half a dozen to go.
Take the same tram back to Baixa, shop for souvenirs, then find the Neo-Gothic iron tower of Santa Justa Lift, built by an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel. It will take you to a calm square by the ruins of the Carmo Church for some rest.
7pm; Take a taxi to Largo do Chafariz de Dentro in the Alfama district. The Museum of Fado (www.museudofado.egeac.pt) there has a restaurant with traditional live fado music.
Some find the genre too mournful but not all fado is tear-jerking. In the Esquina de Alfama restaurant (book a table in advance, www.esquinadealfama.com) waiters, dishwashers and the maitre d' take turns singing a more light-hearted "idler's fado", which some experts say is truer to fado's roots.
Have a grilled codfish while you are at it.
SUNDAY
9am: Have breakfast at the century-old A Tentadora (The Temptress) café, which is popular with Lisbonites of all ages. Then walk down the Rua Domingos Sequeira to the verdant Estrela park, across the road from a beautiful white Baroque basilica, which is also worth visiting.
11am: Follow the Calcada da Estrela downhill until you reach the imposing Neo-Classical Sao Bento Palace — a former monastery where the Portuguese parliament sits.
The ceremonial guards standing at the doors allow you to photograph them.
Noon: Take tram 28 to the Praca de Comercio, go up the Augusta street to the fairytale castle-like Rossio railway station with its intertwined portals with Celtic motifs.
1pm: For a farewell meal and travel mood, stop at Beira Gare near the station and have a "cataplana" dish of cod, shrimp and clams or a "bifana" sandwich — one of Lisbon's best.
Lisbon, Portugal
FLY... British Airways
From Dubai to Lisbon via London (Heathrow) for Dh3,135
— Information courtesy the Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 3492886
