It's never too late to go to Ibiza

I missed out on Ibiza in my twenties.

There was no package to San Antonio, no lost weekend at Manumission. Now 37, with a husband and a 2-year-old in tow, was I too old to discover the Mediterranean's most hedonistic island? Yes, said colleagues, laughing.

They were wrong, as it happened. Yes, there are temples to youth and hedonism all over this tiny island in late October, giant billboards lined the main roads, advertising end-of-season parties at Eden, Pacha, Amnesia — but it's also a laid-back, inclusive kind of place, embraced by hippies of all ages, from 6 months to 80-plus.

Quiet break

We wanted a grown-up break, somewhere quiet and a bit of a treat — and which didn't mind toddlers. Maybe even liked them. Ibiza has plenty of superstylish retreats but a week spent shushing Lila by the pool would have been no holiday. Nor did we want lots of childcare and organised activities: The point was to spend relaxed time together.

The Ibizan tourist board pointed us to what sounded just the place — Can Gall, a converted 200-year-old farmhouse with nine bedrooms, an infinity pool and grounds overflowing with bougainvillea and morning glory.

We drove under a cloudless sky along roads lined with rosemary bushes in blue flower, pink gorse and giant succulents, through a landscape of undulating farmland, red soil, freshly turned-around almond, olive and orange trees, with pine-forested hills climbing towards the coasts. (These are never far away: Ibiza is only 41 kilometres long and 14 kilometres wide; if you want to chase a sunset from the east coast to the west, you can do it in 20 minutes.)

We arrived to find Can Gall as billed — stylish but relaxed, with lots of white linen in the bedrooms, a walk-in hydromassage shower and a bed big enough for four. But also a cot made up for Lila, a stack of Disney DVDs and access to the toybox in reception (owners Santi and Anna have two young sons)

Each room had its own terrace, which meant we could sit out and read, talk and eat while our daughter slept — without the enforced early night or whispering that goes with being in the same room.

Can Gall is not rigorously child-proofed: There is a gate to the pool area but the pool itself is not fenced off; and if you have younger, unsteadier children, you might worry about all the stone paths and steps.

Welcome change

But for us, the fact that there was nothing that screamed "families this way" was a plus. The ambient/trance music piped around the grounds made me feel like I was coasting through a permanent morning-after-the-night before, without the hassle of going out. In summer, parents come to party here; so there is babysitting and a creche.

We were there out of season, so it was quiet and the kitchen was officially closed; but Santi and Anna made us eggs, coffee and marmalade-glazed croissants for breakfast every day. Given notice, they will also make simple children's meals — pasta, eggs, chicken and ice-cream.

It's this service that makes it a great family hotel — the fact that the owners are parents themselves and know and care what small children like and when. For Lila, half an hour spent playing with the boys' puppy in the sprinklers was better than anything we could have planned. And it was free — and something she could do again tomorrow and the day after.

When we ventured out, it was just 15 minutes to the north coast, which is dominated by two largely British resorts, Portinatx and Sant Miquel. Prettier and quieter are the smaller sandy coves in between: Cala Xarraca, Benirras and others which aren't named but can be reached by inching in first gear down rocky turnings off the coast road.

In October, the sea was warm and the water crystal clear — perfect for snorkelling. The Ibicencos have been allowed to build right on the water's edge: So as well as the fishermen's boathouses built into every bay, there are villas perched on the surf. But this could change over the next 30 years: In 1987, all land within 100 metres of the shore was declared public space, so anything now standing here has only a 45- or a 90-year lease.

The southwest corner of the island is particularly dramatic — steep, wooded hills, terrifying cliff roads and white beaches with turquoise sea. One hot day we drove to San Antonio and made a pitstop at its aquarium (not desperately exciting, even if you're two) before heading south to Cala Tarida.

This popular beach is ideal for children — fine white sand, warm shallows: Lila loved standing in the water trying to catch the silver and black-tipped fish all around her.

We got a call from Santi to say he had booked us a table at Es Boldado, a restaurant on the southwestern tip of the island. He had impressed on us how difficult or desirable this would be, so we bundled towels and buckets into the car and hared down the final, winding stretch of coastline.

At the end of a dirt track off the main road, Es Boldado has the most astounding view across the water to a massive rocky outcrop, Es Vedra, thought to be the home of the Sirens in the Odyssey. Down at the bay, little figures jumped off yachts and swam. We ate clams, freshly caught prawns and a delicious sardine escabeche, served with sourdough bread and very garlicky aioli (chicken and chips and ice-cream for Lila), which was well worth the £40 (Dh222)-a-head price tag.

Fill of the city

We majored on beaches, because it was our last chance at summer, but we also walked the cobbled streets of the capital, Eivissa (Ibiza Town), making the steep climb to the cathedral and the castle. The latter is, controversially, being turned into a five-star hotel, opening in 2012.

Another day, we attempted a family bike ride but failed to find a route flat enough to feel safe with Lila.

The "hippy markets" at Sant Carles de Peralta (Saturdays) and Santa Eulria des Riu (Wednesdays) were great for browsing but not for shopping — unless you think £50 (Dh278) for a kid's dress is reasonable.

And we all loved dinner at La Paloma in Sant Lloren de Balfia, a very pretty (hand-painted alcoves lined with cushions) Italian restaurant near Can Gall. So don't let anyone tell you you're too old for Ibiza. I reckon 37 — and 2 — are the perfect ages to start.