Qbara is my do-not-miss this Ramadan. It’s the place for anyone who wants to push their iftar experience beyond the norm — in extreme comfort, nonetheless.
While the interior is mind-blowing — and I do not use that word lightly — the food features modern techniques (pressed cucumber, anyone) that present unexpected textures, and luxurious ingredients (the labnah is spiked with truffle).
Another plus point: This is a table service iftar — forget queuing for the buffet.
There’s a spread on the table when you arrive, so shelve any fears of waiting to end your fast. Dates are there, of course, but also a zinc platter of baby vegetable crudites, crisp from the crushed ice they are nestling in, ready to be dipped into that truffled laban (a thickened yoghurt).
Alongside are marinated olives, hummus and mouttabel, and a dazzling green mash of Egyptian broad beans with feta and heady cumin seeds. More of those vegetables can be found in a light, fresh pickling liquid — my favourites, the baby carrots, are crisp and tangy.
Take your pick from one of three soups (lentil, a meaty, bean-filled Moroccan harira, or a thick, rich pumpkin), which is served from an ibrik, those flasks for making Turkish coffee; a plate of grilled limes is passed around, for an easy squeeze of acid. Then a mix of hot and cold mezze: soft-shell crab in saj bread with harrisa chilli sauce (I would have liked a punchier sauce here); salty crumbled shanklish cheese with heirloom tomatoes and pressed red and yellow watermelon. The pressing of the watermelon gives it a firm yet jelly-like texture that’s a lot more pleasant than it sounds. The same technique is employed in an un-traditional but winning version of fattoush, featuring pressed cucumber with greens, tomato and avocado. Chef Colin Clague has ruined any other fattoush for me now.
Three mains are served family-style, meaning you get a taste of all — a black cod sadiyah, a spiced dish of flaky fish on rice; a chicken tagine (I wish the pickled lemon mentioned on the menu had been more pronounced) and melting, slow-cooked “ouzi-style” lamb shoulder with vegetables. After all this, you’ll be full but not heavy, as it’s light with plenty of vegetables. So when chocolate baklava, chocolate-covered dates and Turkish delight make their appearance, you’ll manage to squeeze a couple in.
Not good enough for you? Overlooking the restaurant is a wall of 60 antique carved wooden panels that open and close like something out of Harry Potter; it’s all part of a magical experience.
Don’t miss it
Where: Qbara, Wafi Fort Complex
Timing: Iftar until 8.30pm.
Price: Dh180, including juices
Call 800-QBARA or 04-7092500.
