Here’s what you get the chef who has everything: a giant box of shiso, the Japanese mint-family herb with a mysterious yet distinctive grassy flavour. That’s what Corduroy chef Tom Power’s grandparents-in-law give him when he and his wife, Natsu, visit their shiso farm in Japan’s Aichi region. On one trip five years ago, Power’s mother-in-law, Noriko Onoda, gave them an even longer-lasting gift when she made a salad loaded with the shiso for dinner. “Hers was a little different than the one I now serve, but it was the inspiration for the dish,” Power says.
Diners at Corduroy in Washington DC can start a meal with this lovely mound of thinly sliced shiso, green cabbage, daikon radish and seaweed bound in a tart sesame dressing. It’s crunchy and fresh, but also hearty.
Power’s menu calls it “Noriko’s Shiso Salad”, but once you make it you may prefer to call it your own. Noriko would surely understand.
SHISO, CABBAGE AND DAIKON SALAD
4 servings
Steps
In a small bowl, combine 15g dried wakame seaweed with enough cold water to cover, and let it sit until reconstituted, 10 to 20 minutes. Drain and pat dry. If needed, cut the soft fronds from the more rubbery stems, discarding the stems. Thinly slice the fronds and add them to a large mixing bowl.
Set a small, dry pan over medium heat and sprinkle in 1 1/2 tbs white sesame seeds. Cook, shaking the pan frequently, until the seeds start to become fragrant and lightly toasted, just a few minutes. Immediately transfer them to a plate to cool. Grind them in a dedicated electric coffee mill or using a mortar and pestle.
In a small bowl, whisk together the ground sesame seeds, 1/2 cup grapeseed or other neutral vegetable oil, 3 tbs unseasoned rice wine vinegar, 1/4 tsp toasted sesame oil, 1/4 tsp fine sea salt and 1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper. Taste, and add more salt if needed.
Cut off one-quarter of a large Napa or other green cabbage (about 285g), and finely shred it. (You should have about 5 cups). Peel and cut into thin matchsticks half a large daikon radish (about 340g). Stack 32 fresh green shiso leaves, roll them tightly, and thinly slice them. Toss the cabbage, daikon and shiso with the wakame in the large mixing bowl.
Pour the dressing over, and toss well to combine. Serve immediately.
— Washington Post
