Dubai: It may be among Dubai’s glitziest addresses for night parties, but Cavalli Club’s signature restaurant, open for dinner every evening from 9.30pm until midnight, should surely have a standing of its own.
If their gourmet Italian and international cuisine, themed on the region of Tuscany this month, isn’t an epicurean delight already, then the Roberto Cavalli crockery and cutlery will more than make up for it.
The atmosphere too adds to the magic of dining Cavalli style. Set on three levels, you could take a seat in one of their funky, zebra print chairs under a suspended crystal chandelier and eat to some funky club and house mixes playing around. We sat in a slightly less imposing corner by a giant screen streaming Cavalli catwalks, hoping to sample some of the best head chef Ernesto Tonetto had to offer.
First up was a Fegatini di pollo su crostini di pane (Dh78) or chicken livers on toast. Cooked truly Tuscan style, insists Tonetto, in extra virgin olive oil with white vinegar, chicken stock and lots of herbs, the liver tasted fabulous.
One of Tonetto’s special Antipasti Freddi or cold starter creations on the night was a trilogy of Tartare di Tonno e Salmone (Dh118) or tuna and salmon tartar, Insalata di Astice (Dh280) or Lobster Salad Catalana style and a Melanzane e Scamorza Fritte (Dh92) or egg plant with Scamorza cheese. The salmon, from Norwegian waters, and the lobster, of Canadian origin, made for an exotic combination, both geographically and gastronomically. The cheesy eggplant, a true vegan delight, was a great accompaniment. If you are avoiding meat for any reason you could also try the Burrata con differenti pomodori (Dh105) or Burrata served with heirloom tomato and fresh basil on toast. Many top restaurants in Dubai these days do source the cream and mozzarella cheese fresh from Puglia in south Italy where it is typically from and Cavalli Club is one of them. The proof is in the softness of the cheese.
Staying on cheeses, Flan di Bettlemat (Dh102) or a sponge-like cake made of the bettlemat cheese exclusive to the Ossola Valley in Italy’s northernmost region of Piedmont is as exotic as it gets. Pears in sugar mustard syrup on the side and topped with spiced blueberry sauce make it not just a ‘pure’ vegetarian hot dish “antipasti” but a great main course in itself.
There was a fabulous looking Filetto di Agnello (Dh265) or lamb fillet for “Secondi” or the main course. Garnished with hot Pepe di Sichuan or szechwan pepper and sweet Salsa Prugne or plum sauce, it was easily my pick for the evening. Soft, succulent and juicy, the portions, especially that of the lamb shoulder, tasted divine.
That wasn’t all though. Another special trilogy – Trio di Dessert (Dh132) – arrived as desserts on a platter for us: tiramisu, chocolate Three Ways and peach milk ice cream. If you are a chocolate lover, then chocolate, done in three ways – mousse, fried at a particular temperature and frozen – is the one you should definitely try. The tangy peach milk ice cream and the tiramisu, in its full coffee flavour, play the perfect foil.
Details:
Meal for Two: Dh1,200 (approximately)
Location: Fairmont Dubai, Shaikh Zayed Road
For reservation contact: 04-332 9260
Diner timings: 9.30pm to mid-night
We Recommend: Fegatini di pollo su crostini di pane, Melanzane e Scamorza Fritte, Filetto di Agnello, Trio di Dessert
