Okku
If living in Dubai is a teensy weensy bit like living in Hollywood (hot all the time, bit of a bubble, overwhelming urge to buy expensive handbags, wearing of make-up at the gym, more size zeroes and, ahem, enhancements, than you can shake a gel nail at, plus inability to walk anywhere), then the bars and eateries in the Emirate must certainly suffer the same anxieties as their LA counterparts in how to cater for the image-obsessed fickle bunch of ‘Shall we go to so-and-so place?’ ‘Oh no, that’s soooo 2011!’ trend-chasers who live here (that’s you and me, by the way).
But whereas Hollywood’s restaurants and establishments are probably all in therapy or something, lying on a couch and saying stuff like, ‘…and then she said that my… *sob* my… *sob*… my lobster was overcooked! Waaaaah!’ it seems that, despite remaining at the top of its game, Okku has decided to stay one step ahead of the fash pack and for 2012, has asked itself: WWMD? That’s, What Would Madonna Do? obvs.
The answer being of course, to hook up with a man somewhere between the ages of zygote and 22, develop guns that’d make a Bulgarian shotputter ‘roid rage with envy and start a fight with Lady Gaga. Basically, reinvent a little. Y’know, shake things up a bit. Which brings us nicely to the new menu at Okku, which sees the Monarch’s all-conquering see-and-be-seen, buzzing bar/restaurant retaining all the bits and pieces you love about the place (its essential ‘Madonna-ness’ if you will), while adding in something a little different (a metaphorical – though more digestible – pointy bra, for example).
For dishes that melt instantly in the mouth (which negates calories, surely?), the Carpaccio of red snapper sashimi, red onion, micro mizuna and lime-and-citrus-soy is a light-as-a-feather winner, and even I, a lifelong avoider of anything followed by the word ‘tartare’, was knocked sideways into my signature cocktail over the equally melty (not a word, but it stays) Steak and Tuna versions, which come sliced, diced, seasoned and served up with lotus root crisps and wonton chips respectively. Elsewhere, the HuShiHu Salad of Yuan crispy duck, baby gem, mâche, romaine lettuce, red radish, mixed cabbage, leek, daikon and fresh pomegranate with plum-amazu dressing, and the Tofu Tricolore of tofu, tomato, avocado and basil doused in soy vinaigrette were, like the other dishes, light, light, light, making this the perfect menu to enjoy before a night out, as there’ll be no carb-filled belly-pop through the Herve Leger bandage dress.
Moving onto sushi and sashimi, the Seared Wagyu sushi with romaine, enoki mushroom, chive, ponzu oroshi and sweet-soy prompted a chorus of ‘Oww, wis iz wuvwy’ (that’s ‘Oh, this is lovely’, said through a mouthful), whilst the Seabass and papaya and vegetarian-friendly, Garden, options are all standouts.
When it comes to the large plates, you’ll encounter all-out decadence with Truffle fried rice, Baked swordfish with chilli-soy butter, Ginger-soy braised veal short ribs, and – drumroll please! – the first-word-says-it-all, Dynamite Kani of two whole baked King crab legs, with masago and spicy mayonnaise. The menu is jam-packed with options that scream out to be shared in the company of those who like to linger over a meal and then lick their fingers, all seductive-like, after. In short: An immaculate collection.
Tasty trio: Japanese
Icho
This recently rebranded spot (it was previously called Benkay and part of JAL hotel) is split into three distinct experiences across different floors, and the design of each is contemporary and yet still distinctly Japanese. Sushi, teppan grill and other specialities are served from the 49th-51st floor. Tres glam. Oooh, and the views over Sheikh Zayed Road are show-stopping.
Location Radisson Royal Hotel, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai
Timing Daily noon-midnight
Tel 04 308 0000
Tokyo@The Towers
Bamboo everywhere, sunken tables, dare-devilish teppanyaki chefs dicing with utensils for your entertainment - these are some of the things that make us love Tokyo@The Towers. The food is also rockstar grade - we love the fusion, like yellowfin tacos, although the traditional options are equally tempting.
Location Emirates Towers, Dubai
Timing Daily 12.30pm-3pm, 7pm-midnight
Tel 04 319 8088
Kisaku
This sushi spot is always full of Japanese expats, a good sign! The sushi is ina league of its own - using the freshest ingredients, it's all made on the spot; the menu of other dishes is so extensive you'll get serious ordering greed and, word is, it's where Chef Nobu sometimes goes when he visits the city. Is therea better endorsement? We think not.
Location Khaleej Palace Hotel, Deira, Dubai
Timing Daily noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight
Tel 04 223 1000
