There's something romantic about boardwalks, and I blame The Drifters with their 1964 hit Under the Boardwalk. But it's Bette Midler's version, as sung in the film Beaches, that appeals most warm, inviting and just enough hint of the pleasures to be engaged in at the location mentioned in the title.

So too The Boardwalk at Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club, sitting on the deck in the pleasant winter sun holds a promise for both those who are regular patrons and new recruits on an epicurean adventure.

A small truckload of salmon first reached our table, along with asparagus and roquette leaves, dressed with citrus vinaigrette. I opted for seafood salad and could still taste the ocean in the calamari, shrimp, hammour, salmon, and clams. A very definite plus: all the leaves are bite size, thus eliminating any embarrassing "open wide" moments.

My companion enjoyed the lightly curried lamb chops she had next, but it was the seabass that was the undisputed showstopper, not least because it fits right in with the Mediterranean setting. Quickly making a plan (they were out of seabass on the day), a perfect slab of fish was laid before me in a reasonable amount of time. Straight out of the oven, breaking through its herby exterior revealed the firm flesh that still maintained its natural flavour and flaked as intended.

Staying with the idea of not knowing what's next, I ordered the Choco Berry Mystery a meringue shell that is refreshingly not sweet, inlaid with nougatine. On top, it wears a lime sorbet hat, but inside, its heart is all white chocolate. The result is an exuberant mix of flavours.

Theirs is the perfect recipe for falling in love, whether for the first time, or all over again. This time not under, but at The Boardwalk.