As the bi-annual Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) spring-summer 2012 kicks off Thursday amidst much scepticism, the region's celebrated designer Furne One says his participation is largely a show of support.
"We have our clients and we are inviting them. I believe that Dubai Fashion Week needs help. But I am not doing it out of pity," said One in an interview with tabloid!.
The Dubai-based Filipino designer, whose creations are worn by the likes of Katy Perry and Nicki Minaj, says supporting local fashion comes naturally to him.
Trade orders
"Fashion is one of those important things that Dubai needs. I am not worried about buyers — whether I will get trade orders. I believe in the vision of Simon Lock — he knows what he's doing," said One.
From this season on, Australian Fashion Week Founder Lock has stepped in as its creative director to revive the five-day DFW and elevate it to an event that's not just a big stylish party. In 2010, DFW underwent a major transition as Capital Marketing purchased the operating rights from Concept Group. However, according to fashion insiders, Lock has inherited a fractured brand.
Disappointing
"I am aware that Dubai Fashion Week — up till this point — has been fairly disappointing. And the new owners sort of recognised that and believed that they need to bring in people who have experience in establishing fashion weeks. That's where I come in," said Lock in an earlier interview with tabloid! He is also committed to enhancing the production values on runways, bringing in models with international exposure and steadily but slowly improving the overall quality of clothes that are unrolled on the runway.
"To be honest, getting it right is going to take time, such things generally do. But what I am going to do is to apply my 30 years of experience in building fashion weeks around the world — and create something exciting out of nothing."
He may have charted out grand plans, but a majority of the local players say DFW is a perfect platform for newcomers. In this season, more than 30 designers — local and international — are confirmed to showcase their collections.
Visibility
"If you are a new designer, who is unfamiliar with the local market, then Dubai Fashion Week is good at giving you that visibility. But I am not sure whether it really benefits the already established, well-known names. We are not participating this season," said Sarah Belhasa, owner of the multi-brand boutique Studio 8.
She added that the trend of designers pooling effort and money to conduct private exhibitions is on the rise. True to her point, during DFW several of these private exhibitions are being held across the city. Today, more than nine designers from Pakistan will unveil their collections in a private invites-only showing in Jumeirah.
Having said that, optimism is running high among those participating in this season's fashion outing. First-timer Barjis Chohan, who runs her own eponymous label, and Wafa Al Katheri, are hoping to be introduced to a wider audience through DFW.
Serve as a bridge
"This is my first time at DFW. I decided to participate because it will serve as a bridge and will help me build a foundation. It is a chance to introduce myself to my country and to the other countries," said Wafa.
Some other participating designers believe that it's a good place to establish trade network and build business relations in an organised manner.
"I believe that more forums and events like DFW will help bring transparency within the global fashion industry and also help build stronger networks with retailers, buyers, distributors, wholesalers, agents," said designer Roopa Pemmaraju.
The designers have also been briefed that there will be a buyer's lounge erected to showcase their collection. A point that was raised by Zayan Gandour, head-buyer and creative director of local boutique S*UCE. Although she is currently travelling, her team will be down at DFW to scout for fresh talent.
Up close
"It's really important for buyers to be able to see the pieces up close. We like to touch the collection, feel the fabrics and meet the designer when placing an order. It would be great if DFW developed beyond the catwalk shows to include a full showroom experience where buyers can buy," she pointed out. Her boutique stocks as many as 70 regional designers. She added that the timing of the event is a sore point.
"It's worth noting that Dubai Fashion Week happens during a very busy time in the international trade show calendar, so for next season it may be worth changing the date to encourage more international buyers. DFW could and should turn into a one stop shop for the region."
Meanwhile, the organisers behind DFW are tight-lipped about the buyer scenario. However, tabloid! has learnt that the majority of the buyers from Dubai's A-list boutiques and department stores are travelling and therefore are not attending DFW.
"It's a long road ahead but we are determined to set it right," said Lock.
Go online
Dubai Fashion Week spring-summer 2012 collections will be held at The Arena, Dubai World Trade Centre from today until Monday. For details on schedule, log on to dfw.ae
