On Tuesday night, Dubai had the privilege of being one of five cities invited to witness fashion history in the making. British design label Burberry — a company with a longstanding and cherished history of its own, having been founded over 150 years ago — sent a live broadcast of its autumn-winter 2010 collection to Paris, Tokyo, New York, Los Angeles and Dubai — in 3D.
In pictures: Bold Burberry ends London Fashion Week
Over 200 specially-invited guests enjoyed a cocktail reception at The Address, Dubai Mall, in a room decorated with gigantic images of Burberry face Emma Watson, before picking up their 3D specs and heading into a darkened hall where a large screen showed a moving version of the brand’s famous check.
The pre-show excitement started to build as scenes of people arriving at the London venue played out and the celebrity guests and faces of the brand were interviewed, with mixed results. Anna Wintour swept in, having just gotten off a flight from New York, to remark from behind her fur-trimmed collar that Burberry would be the only show she would attend at London Fashion Week.
‘Sense of excitement’
The American Vogue editor has famously snubbed the city’s fashion week on a number of occasions, but said she attended this year because she said she had been instrumental in convincing the brand and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey to move the presentation to London, after a decade showing in Milan. “I talked to Chris about it for several seasons. It brings a sense of excitement to London,” she remarked.
Watch footage of the Burberry show...
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Mary-Kate Olsen was less eloquent, saying simply that she was “excited to be surprised” while British indie band the Kooks rambled rather unintelligibly. Kate Hudson said she — and her movie characters — had a longstanding relationship with the brand.
All the interviews were conducted outdoors, where rain poured unceasingly and everyone commented about the freezing weather. From Dubai, viewers were able to peer in and watch, almost voyeuristically, as the London venue slowly filled up. Playing on the rainy theme — Burberry’s trenches, of course, are perfect for the deary British weather — the walls of the hall had graphics of rain pelting down.
It all added to the buzz, even though we were thousands of miles away, and when the show began, with a booming soundtrack in time with every model’s step, the excitement in the room was palpable.
So, did the 3D work? Well, yes and no. Burberry should be saluted for being at the top of their game in terms of finding new, democratic ways to connect with their customers. The concept and execution was flawless. But 3D needs movement in all directions, and Bailey’s lean, close-cut designs, while beautiful, wearable and inspiring, just didn’t get picked up in the third dimension that much. I found myself frustrated that the models held onto their handbags so tightly — they could have swung them out at the end of the runway towards the viewer. And perhaps a few flowing gowns would have created the necessary movement.
New colour palette
But the clothes were, of course, breathtaking.
I found myself wondering how Bailey finds a new colour palette to give his soft-focus touch to each season. Here, mustards, browns and greens passed through his filter, while a navy blue —
who knew you could reinvent that? — was the most-talked-about aspect of the show.
Bailey called the new Burberry girl a “cadet” and the in-flight inspiration was clear, with the trench reinvented as a bomber jacket in sherling and leather. Outerwear was the cornerstone of the collection. Another standout was the thigh-high boots, looking almost like leggings, under demure knee-length skirts in lace and what looked like a stretch knit, while dresses and tops were gauzy and bandage-like, swathing the body.
An ebullient Bailey told the Associated Press after the show that he had been inspired by a visit to the company’s archives and a sketch of an aviator jacket he found there.
“I wanted it to be about our heritage,” he said. “I took flying jackets and aviation jackets and ran them through from peacoats to trenchcoats. I wanted it very tight and a celebration of coats.”
