Palm Springs and the 300 square metre Coachella Valley is the coolest desert in the world - and no, we don't mean you'll need to pack thermals, the chill we're talking about is of the laid-back, effortlessly hip kind. This is where the king of cool, Frank Sinatra chose to live, remember. From spring break college kids to LA socialites, this is where Californians go to let their hair down, and there's no better time to visit than now because the end of April sees the desert host the Coachella Music Festival, one of the best fests in the world.
The Rat Packs
Palm Springs was placed firmly on the map in the Fifties when Hollywood movie stars like Marilyn Monroe, Cary Grant and Kirk Douglas, as well as Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and the Rat Pack, picked it as their vacay destination of choice and hired the era's best architects to build them sleek, character-packed houses there. Celebs love this place; in fact, Cher's late ex-husband, Sonny Bono, was once the mayor of the town. And, thanks to all of this, it's now one of the world's best time capsules of mid-century modern American architecture and design - an aesthetic that's achingly hip these days. And so Palm Springs is enjoying something of a renaissance as a weekend destination, and is transforming itself from the retirement town it became in the Seventies and Eighties, returning to its golden era of understated, unaffected celeb-magnet glam.
The whole town is hugged by the jagged and harsh yet surprisingly beautiful San Jacinto Mountains - which work to both wall the place off from incoming elements and dramatically frame the low-rise skyline. The looming rock formations only make the modernist buildings more quaint and retro cool. In fact, if you've got money to burn and a penchant for all things Rat Pack, you can book Sinatra's former home as a holiday rental - the four-bedroom, one-storey estate still houses his infamous piano-shaped pool and the chip in the kitchen sink where Frank threw a bottle in rage during a fight with then-wife, Ava Gardner. Oh, the small catch is that the house rents out for around Dh9,500 a night - but, between eight of you that ain't bad. (www.luxuryrentalspalmsprings.com).
Another (cheaper) way to soak up the Fifties atmosphere is to stroll down its main street, Palm Canyon Drive. It's not only home to some of the best vintage shopping you'll find anywhere in the world, but is also where you'll stumble upon Copley's restaurant, which serves 21st century food from Cary Grant's old house (www.copleyspalmsprings.com). Another key stop is the historic Plaza Theatre, from which Bob Hope used to broadcast his shows, and today the surprising hit that is The Fabulous Palm Spring Follies (a song and dance show from the town's senior citizens) perform every night (www.psfollies.com).
Spring air
While you'll definitely want to factor in time on a lilo by your hotel pool while in Palm Springs, do take time to get outdoorsy - that mountain range isn't only good for looking at, you know. The area belongs in part to the Native American Agua Calliente tribe, who trace their lineage back to South America's Aztecs and have inhabited the area for over 2,000 years. And they've opened up their sacred sites to the public for hiking. These awe-inspiring trails are called the Tahquitz, Palm, Andreas and Murray Canyons (www.indian-canyons.com).
If you're not a hiker, but still want to see the surroundings then a trip up the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway should do the job. The breathtaking tramcar journey takes you 2,590 metres up through the cliffs of the Chino Canyon, then, once up at the mountain station there are 87 kilometres of hiking trails as well as the freshest air you'll find in California and stunning views, particularly at night (www.pstramway.com).
Under my Coachella-ella-ella
Firmly on the top of 's Farah's bucket list is "Go To Coachella". The festival will, for the first time this year, host the exact same line-up for two weekends in a row (it's that popular), with acts like The Black Keys, Dr Dre, Snoop Dogg, Radiohead, Bon Iver, Jimmy Cliff, Artic Monkeys, Mazzy Star, Afrojack, Cat Power, David Guetta, Noel Gallagher, Feist, Kasabian, Kaiser Chiefs, Florence and the Machine, La Roux, Calvin Harris, Gotye and The Weekend. Phew! Pearl Jam performed in the patch of desert back in 1993, proving the site was perfect for concerts, and by 1999 they were ready to host the first Coachella. While most camp out, tickets are sold out, but you can still book a fully equipped luxury safari tent - a celeb-fave (from Dh5,500 for four, www.coachella.com). Glamping - right up our alley.
Trip notes
Johnny Costa's
This Italian eatery, just one block from Palm Canyon Drive, is widely considered one of the best in the States. In fact, when Frank Sinatra visited in his heyday he was so impressed he whisked the chef off and hired him as his private cook.
www.johnnycostaspalmsprings.com
Joshua Tree
This desert park features wondrous rock formations, impressive cacti and wildflowers. It's a beautiful (and famous) place to camp.
www.nps.gov/jotr
VillageFest
On Palm Canyon Drive, this weekly Thursday night market and old-fashioned fair is good fun. You'll find performers, musicians, arts and crafts, a farmer's market and lots of delicious street food.
www.palmspringsvillagefest.com
Stay there
Budget: Alpine Gardens Hotel
This cute motel personifies Palm Springs: friendly people, blue skies to match the swimming pool and white wicker chairs for you to relax on while whiling away the hours in your courtyard. Rooms from Dh260-a-night.
www.alpinegardens.com
Mid Range: The Ace Hotel & Swim Club
This new super-hipster 180-room hotel sits on the grounds of a mid-century motel and is full of retro furnishings and tiny quirky details like cheese popcorn in the mini bar. The massages are in outdoor treatment yurts and the communal fireplaces dotted throughout are fantastic for chatting to fellow guests. Last year they hosted Coachella after-parties, with musos like Ke$ha making an appearance. Rooms from Dh370.
www.acehotel.com
Luxury: The Willows
This luxury Mediterranean-style property was built in 1924, and hosted Clark Gable and Carole Lombard on their honeymoon. It was rescued from a state of sorry disrepair in the mid-90s by a couple from LA and is now once again the most elegant B&B in the town. A waterfall cascades down rocks outside the dining room, the linen is thread count-friendly and the overall air of the place is one of refined elegance. Rooms from Dh1,200.
www.thewillowspalmsprings.com
Filmed there
Alpha Dog, Diamonds Are Forever, Ocean's Eleven, Palm Springs Weekend, Rain Man, The Player
Fly there
United Airlines flies to Palm Springs International airport to Dubai from Dh4,500 return. The route transits in Washington and LA. For more go to www.united.com
