Porto is a European city that literally gets lost in translation. The Portuguese pronounce it "Portu" while we often refer to it as "Oporto"; probably due to the fact locals originally used the definitive article O-Porto — the port — which we misinterpreted as its name.
However, I think it's probably thanks in part to Jose Mourinho bringing FC Porto to European prominence that this ancient city suddenly seems to have become a fashionable contender for the ubiquitous weekend break. Porto has a lot more than football going for it. Fondly referred to as the city of bridges (across Douro River), it is one of those destinations — like Venice — that should first be admired from afar.
Picturesque sights
There may be no romantic Venetian water-taxi approach but staying at the Yeatman Hotel (www.theyeatman.com) accords one a panoramic first glimpse. The view from the restaurant or terrace is magnificent and should be savoured before venturing across the bridge.
Seen from the hotel side of the river, the city looks like a picturesque, yet frustratingly impossible, jigsaw puzzle. You look out across a stacked mountain of higgledy-piggledy, terracotta rooftops that appear dense and impenetrable. In reality, Porto is a mix of cobbled alleys and wide, tree-lined boulevards, and it has a friendly, faded splendour that reminded me of Havana; lots of palm trees and fabulous Fifties graphics.
Everything is thrown together, which makes exploring a pleasure. There is enough interesting architecture and history to satisfy the curious, coupled with splashes of urban sophistication — good shops, restaurants, beaches and nightlife.
Porto also houses the most beautiful bookshop in the world, the Lello. Built in 1906, it's the stuff of fantasy. The neo-Gothic exterior hides a magical interior, with panelled walls, stained-glass windows, open galleried floors and a central staircase with carnation-red steps. Rumour has it that this shop inspired J.K. Rowling. I can see why. It's like walking on to a film set.
A change for the better
The last time I visited Portugal — albeit 25 years ago — I was unimpressed with its cuisine. I stayed in Lisbon — I remember too much caldo verde — (an unappetising soup made from potato, shredded kale and bits of meat), too many tripe-based recipes and garlic-infused fish stews. Times have changed. Both at the Yeatman and the trendy beachside restaurant Shis (www.shisrestaurante.com), I found the food imaginative and delicious.
At the Vinotherapie spa in Yeatman Hotel, I had a Pulp Friction exfoliating massage using fresh grapes, followed by a Crushed Cabernet Scrub. Now that's what I call being pipped to the Porto.
Porto, Portugal
FLY... Lufthansa
From Dubai (via Frankfurt) to Porto for Dh3,550. Or try Swiss Air from Dubai (via Zurich) for Dh3,350.
— Information courtesy the Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 3492886
