The first published mention of the word "brunch" is said to have been made in a British magazine Hunter's Weekly in 1895. What apparently started as a matter of convenience — in upper-middle-class houses in Britain, buffet spreads were laid out by the staff before they went on their Sunday leave — has now become a popular social time together for friends and family the world over to indulge in the pleasures of food (of course, here in Dubai, we have adapted to the Friday brunch).

It might have started in England but I've always been a fan of Sunday brunches in India — the variety there are unrivalled. Today, on an indolent Sunday, when the outside looks rather overcast, wet and gloomy, I'm sitting in the Hyatt's Sunday brunch in Delhi. From my far left comes an escalating clapping sound of some sort — it appears to be one of the chefs adeptly juggling dough between his hands, thinning out the roti before he cooks it.

Despite tall, imposing pillars, a large striking glass piece showcasing a tree made out of crystal pieces and commanding mirrors stretching out on one side of the hall, there is a pleasantness and warmth about sitting in this main buffet area. I'm not a fan of excessive sumptuousness but this — well, I guess you could call it tasteful grandeur.

The spread of salads, hot dishes, soups, desserts and everything else is so ample and enthralling that I almost find myself bewildered by the choice. At 2pm, the Delhi brunch-eers have just strolled in and the atmosphere is busy, yet languid. I see one of the waiters in front of me batting with a tennis racquet — only, it happens to be a fly-zapper. As I had slept in and skipped breakfast this morning, I decide to start with a plate of watermelon, mango, pineapple and kiwi.

After all, I only have two things planned for today — food and a spa-and-salon in the evening, And with the rains still pouring, it's just as well that I had gone out for shopping yesterday.

As I cut into a slice of mango, my eyes follow the tall hats of the chefs walking around, changing dishes, topping up salads and keeping their eye on the perfect layout, guests taking their time over picking food, strolling from counter to counter and waiters serving tea and drinks. The tables are peppered with chilled-out families, friends, individuals reading and perhaps a few people on business. On the side is a juice corner, luring with all it colours, trying to holler its health benefits above the glitter of indulgence mushrooming across the length of the hall.

With all the hotels and competition around, I wonder how any one hotel is able to maintain and reinvent that edge. In India, I might only have Mumbai to compare with but the Hyatt in Delhi is without a doubt the brunch I will be returning for if I'm ever back in this city on a Sunday.