The age of plenty has caused us to rethink our relationship with food. We may live in a desert, but our lives are so far removed from our environment that obesity, diabetes and cardiovascular disease are of greater concern than where our next meal comes from. By and large, what we put into our mouths isn’t necessarily good for our bodies — something UAE residents are beginning to realise, as a trend for healthy, mindful eating edges into our social media feeds and our lives.
From vegan to paleo, entrepreneurs across the country already offer a variety of healthy options, primarily geared towards the fitness and weight loss industry. Entrepreneurs Irina Sharma and Neha Jamani go one step further with Sesame, a homegrown concept that puts the focus on California-style clean eating.
“Many of us focus more on the experience of eating and less on the health effects of eating. People spend more time worrying about what they can’t consume, and that itself adds pressure on the body,” Sharma told Gulf News tabloid!. “The idea is how can we give choices with what they can and enjoy eating.”
The clean living fanatic and yoga guru, a long-time Indian expat, brings the discussion back to the meaning of food in our lives, and how we have evolved to expend energy in obtaining our food. “Food is the cross-line between nature and culture.”
PLANT-FORWARD
Their response is a plant-forward selection of world food. The post-hipster trend puts vegetables and whole grains at the centre of the meal — while not avoiding meat. Its proponents include chefs such as Alice Waters, Dan Barber and Rene Redzepi. Sharma calls this a therapeutic approach that goes beyond flavour and taste to shine a light on how food helps prevent illness, improves recovery and promotes optimal health.
Jamani, a holistic chef from the Bauman College of Holistic Nutrition & Culinary Arts in Berkeley, California, developed the menu with Ramusake chef Gohei Kishi over the last six months. “All our food is cooked in rice oil, for example, not virgin olive oil, because it has a higher smoke point, and unlike olive oil, isn’t easily spoiled by heat,” the Dubai-born Indian expat says. “And everything is prepared from scratch on site.”
Another dish, a mineral broth with seaweed, ginger, lemon and a dozen other condiments, is used to poach fish (in a stellar origami fish cooked en papilotte with broccolini and fennel), as the stock for a fashionable millet risotto, and served on its own.
In keeping with an aim to use familiar ingredients in new ways, there are also more approachable dishes, such as avocado toast with goat’s cheese, felafel waffles with harissa mayo, an okonomiyaki pancake with chickpea mayo and an orange polenta cake with saffron and honey labneh. Culinary influences are drawn from as far afield as India and Japan, with a strong core of Middle Eastern elements. From kale and quinoa to avocado and almonds, the menu is studded with fashionable superfoods, and gluten- and dairy-free, and vegan items are all on offer. Where possible, ingredients are organic or locally sourced, such as the Boon Coffee.
THE FOOD
So how does the talk translate to the plate? Balance seems to be the guiding mantra at this all-day venue. While the odd dish was under-seasoned and the desserts totally underwhelming, by and large each plate sang in beautiful harmony. Of a traditional three-course meal, the starters were fantastic. An avocado and tomato tartare sees both ingredients spar playfully against each other, while a date vinaigrette brings them together like an older sister with errant siblings. Springy lamb meatballs on cauliflower couscous are mildly spiced, with sweet pomegranate and nutty pistachio notes.
While the flaky origami fish was an invigorating prod to the system, my friend’s chicken and harissa on cauliflower mash was slightly dry, although the spicing made up for it. Among the drinks, simply sipping a tulsi elixir engendered a sense of virtuosity. Sharma calls it, simple nourishing food, and when I wake the next day, I feel light, clear-headed and ready for anything the day might throw at me.
Like the blackboard outside the restaurant proclaims while providing food for thought: “Remember when your body is hungry, it wants nutrients, not calories!”
—Keith J Fernandez is Group Editor — Commercial Publishing. Although he loves eating, his gluten intolerance and ongoing battle with the bulge has forced him to take a closer look at what he puts into his mouth.
The details
Sesame Dubai is at Sunset Mall on Jumeirah Beach Road. It is open from 7.30am to 10pm. A meal for two costs Dh200.
