A change is as good as a holiday, they say. But not all holidays are idyllic affairs, conjuring up fond memories for years to come. Thankfully, the refurbished Der Keller carries its facelift well.
A staple for nearly four decades, the German institution is more grand dame than vain starlet. Its nip and tuck has been more about enhancing its strengths than a total makeover with no reference to what came before.
The bricks of the original establishment remain, as do the smiling chairs. This instils a sense of continuity for regulars, but enough is different to avoid it from coming across as stale.
One of the new features is chef Marcel Korpuka, who brings with him a menu of traditional dishes from Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
We start with lard spread thickly on bread, a combination that personifies the still rustic simplicity of Der Keller. It is as homely and comforting as this venue has been, and continues to be. The ubiquitous pretzel tower is almost kitsch, but feels just right next to cold cuts and cheeses that include a mild Tête de Moine or Monk’s head and a great bodied Appenzeller.
While I find the flesh of the beautifully flaky Arctic char fish a tad under-seasoned, the skin is nice and crispy and salty to compensate.
Chef Korpuka’s veal escalope — Wiener schnitzel — is a marvellous take on the classic, the brioche coating just thick and sweet enough to balance the sourish cherry-like lingonberry sauce and sautéed potatoes that accompany it.
We end with kaiserschmarrn or emperor’s mess. Named after emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, it is a literal mess of fluffy shredded pancake with berries and plum compote and cream. Sweet and tart and warm and comforting, it has the power to transport you over continents and back in time.
And therein lies the success of the new-look Der Keller — it is the stuff holidays are made of.
Der Keller, Jumeirah Beach Hotel, 04 432 3232
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