I have Syrian origins, but was born in London and raised in Paris. As you can imagine, I grew up eating all kinds of food, but food from my native Middle East holds a very special place in my heart. It’s difficult to choose your favourite spices from a cuisine you so admire, but here are my top five.
Za’atar
Without a doubt, za’atar is my favourite spice mix from the Middle East. Its taste takes me back to childhood, when the whole family would sit around the table to savour breakfast. My dad still enjoys freshly made Arabian bread, olive oil and za’atar first thing in the morning. Although the herb is yummy on its own, I recommend making your own za’atar blend at home — the short recipe is in my book, Food, Love and Life from Dalia’s Kitchen.
Sumac
With its lovely sour flavour, sumac can be used as a substitute for lemon in any dish. It’s the reddish powder you sometimes see sprinkled over hummus. I’ve tried this really delicious omelette that has labneh, sumac and spinach in it — you can find the recipe in my book. The spice is made from crushed sumac berries, the juice of which can be used as a citrusy salad dressing. Powdered sumac can be used as a rub for meats before grilling or as a marinade.
Cinnamon
I am a big fan of cinnamon, both in sweet and savoury dishes. I almost always add it to my stews. For example, when chicken is boiling, add cinnamon — you’ll see it gives off a wonderful aroma and adds a subtle dimension to the taste of the dish. Cinnamon is a spice that we also use in desserts — for instance, rice pudding uses a lot of it, as do cakes and other sweet treats.
Nutmeg
Nutmeg is often the secret ingredient that makes a dish stand apart. I put nutmeg in sweets as much as I use it in savouries. I remember cooking comforting rice pudding when younger; we’d put a lot of nutmeg into it. Nutmeg also brings out the flavours in purées and meat dishes.
Cumin
Cumin is an integral part of Middle Eastern cuisine, although we use it more sparingly than Indians do! I use a lot of cumin in soups for a depth of flavours, but I am always putting in more than is required.
I learned all the Arabian cooking I know from my mum. And no matter what I eat, it never tastes as good as mummy’s food. This one’s for you mum!
