THE RIB ROOM, JUMEIRAH EMIRATES TOWERS
Caveman
Jumeirah Emirates Towers’ The Rib Room has been a staple on palaeo-lovers’ maps since it opened more than a decade ago, but a new menu had us valet parking outside very speedily indeed.
The ambience: Rarefied and very la-di-da. The Emirates’ rulers eat here.
The service: Anticipatory. The servers are very knowledgeable and special requests are accommodated without a fuss.
The food: On the new menu is a whole selection of ribs. Pick from Middle Eastern accompaniments or unpretentious mac and cheese — there’s something for everyone.
Our favourite was the Moroccan-spices lamb ribs with baba ganoush, pine nuts, capers and a curry dressing — that sounds like it shouldn’t work, but it does. The dish has the warm flavours of a tagine, with the merest hint of spice. Or you could order the sticky-sweet veal short ribs, slow-braised and almost fork tender.
There are salads, too: we liked one with roast beetroot, goat’s cheese and candied nuts. Or you could pick from the wide selection of grain- and grass-fed steaks.
We hate: The traffic to get there. Whether past Shaikh Zayed Road or the Trade Centre roundabout, estimate more time than you think you’ll need.
We love: Eat here often enough and the restaurant will present you with a steak knife engraved with your name. You’ll be in rarefied company: mine was placed next to one belonging to His Highness Shaikh Mohammad Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice-President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai.
THE EXCHANGE GRILL, FAIRMONT DUBAI
Caveman
Rabbit, foie gras, tartare, crab, Wagyu — all of that on the same menu makes for a very indulgent meal indeed. We’re at The Exchange Grill at Fairmont Dubai. The Diabetic Diva’s off on holiday and I’ve got a visiting friend in town — what better excuse to head to an old favourite?
The ambience: We’re warmly welcomed to this New York-style steakhouse, which has recently had some cosmetic work done, and are given a table at the centre of the room. On the wall are giant TVs screening videos of Times Square — novel enough to start, but a bit repetitive while you’re working your way through the extensive beverage list.
The food: Fine dining at its best. Each course is a visual treat, and the food is intriguingly combined and packed with flavour. My starter platter includes a rabbit and mushroom combo, a punchy lobster bisque, delicate tuna tartare, a spoon of foie gras with fig chutney and a fantastic watermelon, feta and balsamic skewer. A crab salad’s next and it comes paired with avocado cream and tiny cubes of tomato jelly — a bit too much mayo, but smooth and velvety.
The main is a symphony of tastes and flavours. Beautifully medium-rare Wagyu and just-done scallops teamed with asparagus, broccoli, morels, shallots and veal and morel jus. There are about five flavours in each mouthful — what more could you ask for?
We hate: The large-format TVs. The restaurant’s decor is a work in progress, though, so we’re reserving judgment.
We love: The personalised service. Chef Ramon Turmo came out and asked us what we loved, hated or hankered after. Pretty standard at fine restaurants now, but Turmo believes in setting high expectations and then topping them.
CIELO SKY LOUNGE, DUBAI CREEK GOLF & YACHT CLUB
Omnivore
Location, location, location. Cielo’s is hard to beat.
The ambience: This large terrace at the Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club boasts winning views of Dubai’s iconic skyline. Stark white furniture works well with the coloured lights to create a sleek lounge.
The food: Cielo buys into the tapas trend. The menu goes on forever, containing cold and hot tapas. The mini hamburgers — carb-light, flavourful meat with caramelised onion adding to its juiciness — will appeal to even the most staunch fashionista. But the traditional favourites aren’t to be missed — patatas bravas (fried potatoes with a chunky, spicy tomato sauce) and tortilla Espanola (a classic Spanish omelette with potatoes and onions).
We hate: The unexpected thunderstorm. But it did allow the staff to display their creativity in challenging situations.
We love: The concept. It’s a great spot to start your night out, but don’t be surprised if you end it here too.
RHODES TWENTY10, LE ROYAL MERIDIEN BEACH RESORT & SPA
Omnivore
Some might question Britons’ authority on anything related to the hotter months, especially as experienced here in the desert, but Michelin-starred celebrity chef Gary Rhodes has succeeded unquestionably in his quest. He’s created a menu that’s light and varied, and will leave you feeling full and fulfilled, yet not lethargic.
The service: Staff are well trained and very knowledgeable.
The food: Starters and desserts are served as sharing dishes. Grilled peppers, soft almost to the point of disintegration, pack a powerful punch combined with onions and the earthiness of the humble lentils, which is enhanced by an unexpected spicy kick from coriander. Seared scallops, cooked until soft but not rubbery, sit prettily on a creamy mash that’s almost unrecognisable as potato. The dish is rounded off by a devilled sauce (made from veal jus, chives and grape vinegar), the caramelised brown gravy adding a touch of sweetness loaded with full, meaty flavour.
The grilled mushroom skewers are draped in sophistication, the fungi at home on garlic, crushed tomato and parsley toasts, the toasted crostini adding a hint of smokiness.
True to form, the duck breast leant towards the dry side, but was saved by a full, tangy sauce and Old World parsnips glazed in honey yet not sweet. A silky smooth foie gras side, quickly seared, added further texture.
My vegetarian companion was as enamoured by the texture in his mushroom dish — mushroom, stuffed with mushrooms and topped with mushroom foam.
My rhubarb and custard cheesecake, a new addition, made the most of the plant’s delicate tartness, while the lilac poached rhubarb and refreshing orange sorbet it came with complemented the stylish white and black interior with its accents in shades of lavender.
It was outdone, however, by the iced coffee and orange mousse, the two layers sandwiched between slivers of dark chocolate for a rich, smooth and refreshing end.
We hate: Not trying the raspberry cream tartlet (pictured above). Served with fresh raspberries, lemon sorbet and coulis, it’s said to be a refreshing delight.
We love: Everything. If this is the taste of summer, then bring it on.
