Dubai: Sufi poems professing infinite love for the Creator and verses of the Quran are not just wrought into the jewellery of Lamya Hegazy, they are a stamp of the Arab and Muslim identity she celebrates.
Using time-tested Egyptian silversmith techniques, she combines inspirations from Arab culture with modern jewellery designs that appeal to clients from the region, Westerners and teenagers, she said.
A banker turned jewellery designer, Hegazy set up Taleed Designs with Manal Nofal. Taleed is a classical Arabic word meaning that which is old and precious, she said.
The grace of Arabic calligraphy, the poignancy of its poetry and wisdom of proverbs inspire the pieces. "There are different types of calligraphy, it is in demand and even the Chinese are imitating it," she said.
"I am proud of being Arab and proud of the language and culture. My jewellery is a statement of that."
Having launched the business 10 years ago, she has survived the global economic crisis, rising metal prices, the increased cost of mounting exhibitions and tough competition.
Online platforms
Using online platforms to display or sell the pieces backfired as the original creations attracted copycats. Copyright violations are a problem for many designers, especially in a business where clients demand one-off pieces, Hegazy said.
"There is no copyright in jewellery making," she added. "Even if I register my products, someone can still copy them.
"The same happens with bags and shoes. This is why I don't use online for sales."
Instead, Hegazy created a Facebook page for promoting new collections or exhibitions and keeping contact with clients.
Online is too impersonal to suit the intimacy of jewellery. "Jewellery has to be tried and touched, it has to suit your colour. Jewellery is very personal."
The economic crisis, which crunched many small businesses in its way, nearly did the same for Hegazy's venture as well. One gram of silver, which cost one Eygptian pound in 2002, is now 90 Egyptian pounds, according to Hegazy. However, she chose to take a major cut on the profit margins rather than compromise on quality or close down.
Customer care was also crucial. "If you work with women, a personal connection is important and they get comfortable dealing with you," she said.
But in a market packed with jewellery designers, you have to get creative to differentiate your product. Better finish, after-sales care and inspired pieces are key factors. "I don't just sell and disappear," she said. "I treat my customers the way I want to be treated."
Building relations means a customer might drop into a jewellery exhibition without buying anything, but head to Hegazy's home, where she also conducts business, to select some pieces.
Clientele
"I work with women so word of mouth is really important. I have repeat customers. I have clients who become friends or friends who become clients. One of the most rewarding things is getting to know people from other nationalities as well."
Her clients include big department stores such as Al Salam Store and Galeries Lafayette, gift shops in hotels and exhibitions. She also exports to Lebanon, Germany, Belgium, Pakistan and Qatar through dealers or exhibitions. Hegazy makes the designs herself, from creating the concept to selecting stones and metal and doing the silversmith work from home, while her partner runs a workshop in Egypt.
Having a business was a flexible work option for her as a mother and homemaker after she left her banking job. The idea began when Hegazy and her partner created and sold jewellery at a charity exhibition in Cairo.
Demand for the products inspired her to start a business and part of the proceeds still goes towards charity, she said. The designs now cater to a variety of events: Cancer awareness, the Egyptian revolution, Pakistan elections, Mother's Day and various national days.
Reading up on the properties of the stones used, Hegazy understands the energy emitted by each type and mixes them accordingly.
"It's not just a business, it's an art. It's personal because it's handmade. It's not just about business, it's about the emotion that goes into it."
