Spain’s famous Mediterranean island Ibiza — the perennial home of dance, music and rave parties — is like one of the old 45 rpm records. While the main track is downright groovy, the flip side is full of pleasant surprises.
In this case the extra attractions come from the beautiful main town which dates back over 2,500 years, the rugged coast dotted with beautiful coves perfect for relaxed swimming, and the winding tracks which pass through countryside filled with pine trees, wild flowers and fruit orchards.
The second smallest of the Balearic Islands measures just 30 by 20 kilometres, making it extremely manageable for travellers. Much of it is protected by UNESCO due to its Phoenician-Carthaginian archaeological remains and unique marine biodiversity. For anyone with a sense of adventure, or who simply loves nature, this is the place to be.
Making the experiences all the more pleasant it’s good to know that there is always a small café with cold drinks, or a restaurant with stunning sea views and tempting local dishes just around the bend.
A CAPITAL WORTH EXPLORING
Most travellers make the island’s largest town, aptly named Ibiza Town, their arrival point and base. Hugging the pretty port it’s a delightful mix of whitewashed buildings clinging to the rocky hillside and culminating in the Dalt Vila. This ancient walled citadel’s origins can be traced back to the Phoenicians who settled here more than 2,500 years ago. Winding their way back down the hill to the harbour and port are a tangle of cobblestoned streets which regularly open into pretty plazas filled with tempting shops, restaurants and cafés.
Ibiza Town lends itself perfectly to unrushed strolling. Start with a leisurely visit to the Plaça de la Constitució — one of the town’s most delightful squares. Birds will serenade you and the scent from the blossoms of dozens of orange trees — a fragrant legacy of the Arabs who colonised the island over a thousand years ago — fills the air. Perhaps start the day with a coffee and some sugar-dusted churros — Spanish donut sticks — as you enjoy the early morning scene and map out your day.
The first stop for visitors should be the nearby grand gateway to Dalt Vila, the Portal de ses Taules. The imposing entrance which leads up into the citadel is flanked by marble Roman statues set into the imposing Renaissance-era walls. Even though it’s the historic centre of Ibiza Old Town, the citadel is rarely overcrowded. It may be an uphill climb but the magnificent views make the walk well worth it. From this lofty vantage point you can get an almost 360-degree view which takes in the harbour and Ibiza’s sister island Formentera to the south and the distant mountains and plains to the north.
Within the citadel’s walls are an architectural mélange of buildings which map out the island’s journey through the millennia. First came the Phoenicians then the Romans and Arabs, and finally the Catalans from mainland Spain moved in following the victory of Guillem de Montgrí in 1235.
The lofty battlements are also the perfect spot to look out over the World Heritage Phoenician Necropolis situated directly below. During the Punic era, between 600BC and 146BC, thousands of noblemen from Carthage in northern Africa were buried here.
Providing a unique opportunity for travellers to stay in the historic centre of town the luxurious hotel La Torre de La Canonigo (www.latorredelcanonigo.com) is built around a 14th-century tower and offers spectacular views of the whitewashed buildings and vermillion roofs below. Rooms are dressed in pure white and feature canopy beds and private balconies or terraces. Surrounded by pine trees the delightful swimming pool is the perfect place to cool off or catch some rays.
REFUEL IN STYLE
When it comes to satisfying hunger there are two distinct dining areas in the capital. Each has its own personality and is well worth exploring. Set high above the town within the old walled citadel Dalt Vila provides dining opportunities with a slice of history. Walk across the wooden drawbridge into the romantic stone-hued Plaza de Vila, the main square, which is filled with restaurant tables and a lively buzz as both international travellers and locals enjoy the alfresco dining. If you follow the narrow streets branching off to the left and right you’ll find some hidden gems such as La Oliva (www.laolivaibiza.com) which has a particularly good octopus and mussels.
Back down at sea level, the Sa Penya area was once the fishermen’s quarter but today has been completely gentrified. Just below the port, narrow cobblestoned streets are packed with restaurants providing an exceptional local ambience, and where there is room, the tables spill out into the street or square. This is where the beautiful people who have just stepped off their yachts hang out. Dine in atmospheric style with mouth-watering seafood morsels at La Cava Tapas Bar (www.lacavaibiza.com)
NATURAL BEAUTY
To really discover the natural beauty of the island, you’ll need to use some of the small towns or rural accommodation as a base.
Perfect for those who love nature, but still enjoy coming home to comfort, Atzaró hotel (www.atzaro.com) in the north is surrounded by cultivated fields, olive plantations and wooded hills. The hotel is set around a series of reflective water pools and lush gardens filled with bougainvillea and bamboo which provide an exotic and restful setting. Surrounded by mountains, and with the coast just a few kilometres away, it makes the perfect base from which to explore further afield. While not out guests are encouraged to enjoy the many outdoor settings for meals or simply chilling-out. Tired muscles can be relieved with a massage at the luxurious Balinese-style spa area.
Although not situated right on the coast, Atzaró has the added attraction of having its own private beach club just metres from the sand at the beautiful cove and beach Cala Nova. Accessed from the hotel by a convenient shuttle bus, the chic summer hangout, decorated in pure white, is perfect for relaxing or informal dining and lounging after a swim.
From this chic beach retreat you can stride out into the countryside and do some exploring. One of the most impressive walks is to the nearby cove Es Cubells. The path leads up into the pine-scented forest and offers views of the sea and the towering rock formations that come out of it. The walk is about 12 kilometres, and depending on how many stops you make, it can be spread out over a whole day.
Branching off from the main path there are tracks leading down to secluded beaches which make for enticing points to have a dip and refresh.
A little further south of Es Cubells is the crescent-shaped cove Cala Llentrisca. This slim stretch of beach has a great advantage — it can be enjoyed in full sunshine until late in the afternoon and is usually deserted. The water are so blue and transparent that you can see small fish feeding along the bottom. Cala Llentrisca is a place that invites repose and reflection, with only the fishing boats bobbing far out to sea offering much in the way of distraction.
Swimmers who want to catch a glimpse of the underwater scene just need a simple mask to enjoy the wonderful shells, coloured fish and rocks below. Being on this beach is pretty close to heaven. Rising up behind the blue water and the warm sand, the surrounding hills are full of eternally green pine and cedar trees.
GETTING ACTIVE
Near the village of Sant Joan de Labritja in the north of Ibiza, a very special sanctuary for horses provides opportunities to see the countryside from the saddle. Ibiza Horse Valley (www.ibizahorsevalley.com) is set around the lush forests of the national park Es Murta which provides an enchanted environment to take a leisurely ride.
Most of the beautiful horses have been rescued from farms and racetracks and, after a full rehabilitation programme, are now tame loving mounts perfect for children and all level of riders. While there are short rides, to really make the most of the experience and see a wider range of scenery, a full day out is best.
With higher rainfall on the island’s northern side and valleys protected from the winds, the riding paths run through lush emerald-green trees dappled with sunlight filtering through to the fern-covered ground below. After a morning discovering the beauty of the area on horseback, riders are treated to a hearty midday lunch served in a rural restaurant. Enticing dishes may include a plate of char-grilled octopus drizzled with olive oil and dusted with paprika, or baked locally caught fish with a generous squeeze of lemon.
The afternoon ride continues on to the beach where both riders and the horses can enjoy a dip in the azure waters of the Mediterranean before heading back to base camp. For those who want to spend more time in the area there is plenty of country-style accommodation, mostly in converted farm houses.
Those with more energy can also get out and see some spectacular island scenery from the saddle of a mountain bike. Ibiza Mundo Activo www.ibizamundoactivo.blogspot.com.es/ organizes great day trips into the olive-tree-filled countryside. From April to June the area is a mass of pretty wildflowers which provide an extra bonus for keen photographers.
Most of the trips start from the outskirts of the fishing town Santa Eularia on the east coast — an area that is relatively flat — passing through orchards of almonds and olive groves before diving into pine forests, only to emerge in the top of a cliff with spectacular views across the turquoise water.
Old stone olive mills or watch towers dating from Roman times are dotted along the paths and make great photo opportunities and an excuse to take a break.
For those who prefer their independence, bikes can be rented in most towns, and to make things easier there are now colour-coded signposted routes all over the island.
Ibiza’s gentler side rightly deserves attention, and for those who love nature and the tranquillity of a quiet beach or a forest path this island holds unlimited charm.
Scott Adams is a Madrid-based freelance writer
