The most memorable bits of your life are often when you do things for the first time. And oddly, considering for the past two years I have been travelling around the world more than at any point before, until last week I had never sailed on a cruise ship — never set foot on one in fact.
So a chance to spend three nights on-board a huge ocean liner made me come over all “explorer” as I imagined myself issuing instructions to porters and standing regally on the deck staring out into the ocean’s distant horizon. I even Googled quotes about ocean travel and particularly liked this one, attributed to John F. Kennedy:
“All of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean, and, therefore, we have salt in our blood, in our sweat, in our tears. We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea — whether it is to sail or to watch it — we are going back from whence we came.”
So you might say I was getting a bit carried away with the thought of my “adventure” at sea. In reality, there is no hardship endured or mariner skills required on a Royal Caribbean voyage. In fact, the experience was completely different to how I had envisaged it and fascinating in terms of the type people it attracts (more of which later).
Initial hiccups
My invitation from Royal Caribbean was to spend a few nights experiencing its new Arabian voyage, taking in parts of the UAE, Oman and Bahrain. So on a typically bright and hot Tuesday morning, my husband and I made our way to Dubai’s Port Rashid for our early embarkation.
It should have been obvious, really, but I was surprised at how many levels of security clearance we had to pass through just to get to the ship itself. A checkpoint at the entrance to the port took ten minutes to clear as officials peered suspiciously though our taxi window, riffled through stacks of paper and quizzed us about whether we were “passengers” or “visitors”.
Passports flew back and forth and eventually we were through. Then on to the main terminal for luggage check-in through metal detectors and aiport-style screeners where, again, officials seemed suspicious as to why we were even at Port Rashid. I would have thought the gigantic ocean liner docked behind them might have thrown a few clues, but hey ho.
And finally, as we approached the mammoth Brilliance of the Seas herself and the greeting officials at the entrance ramp — we were bemused to find ourselves vigorously questioned as to why we were here once again. Another 20 minutes of list checking and mobile phone calls ensued before we were eventually let on-board, a little flustered.
Upon reflection, this prolonged affair was probably partly due to the fact we weren’t logged as standard guests (journalists are such a nuisance) and an ocean liner containing 2,500 people is quite rightly subject to checks as vigorous as any aircraft. I would advise any novice cruiser to arrive at least a couple of hours ahead of time just for getting through these bureaucratic hurdles, bearing in mind there is also a strict final call an hour before the ship sets sail.
Awestruck by extravagance
Once on-board the cruise liner it’s fair to say both my husband and I were dumbstruck by the sheer size of the vessel. From the outside it was, of course, massive but there really is something of a Tardis effect once you’re inside. Corridors of cabins stretched on either side, seemingly into infinity. We jumped into the glass-fronted lift and zipped up at lightning pace past floor after floor. This is when we saw arguably the most impressive part of the boat — the cavernous, ornate piano lounge-floored lobby area. It’s the heart of the ship and from the lift we could see what everyone was doing on different levels and on the lobby bottom way below us. It was as though someone sliced through a cross-section of the whole liner so we could see what everyone was up to.
We were taken to our cabin, which was a standard double and quite small but cosy. There was a large, comfy bed with a curtain to partition it, if required, from the rest of the room, a small bathroom with shower, a nice dressing table area, sofa, television with a selection of international channels and a pleasing circular portal window above the sleeping area so you can look out to sea. It wasn’t huge but it was homely and pretty much everything you need is supplied. However, I’d recommend taking your own full set of toiletries, as only the very basics are supplied.
I headed for a briefing at the guest relations area on the lobby deck. This well-organised information centre is permanently manned and is the place to book excursions, change money, raise queries and so on. There is a stand packed with fliers full of information about day-to-day life on-board the ship and things to do. The only problem I had was finding how to get WiFi access for my laptop — I eventually discovered that I had to register online to acquire a password, etc. But be warned, fees for use aren’t cheap: $.65 (Dh2) per minute or $35 (Dh129) for 60 minutes.
In fact, by the time we had taken care of our luggage, got our personal paperwork in order and finished fiddling with technological appliances, we finally switched into cruise mode and went for a stroll around the different decks. At about this time, the huge, shiny beast of a liner also finally left port. I had been curious as to whether I would be able to feel any motion when out at sea. I don’t have a queasy stomach but even if I had, it wouldn’t have mattered — movement is almost imperceptible — it’s really like being in a minicity on the seas.
Into cruise control
And so off we went on a jaunt around Brilliance of the Seas, determined to visit every corner. The decks reach 11 levels, the top being where the indoor and outdoor pools are located. Here people were in holiday mode, strewn across the rows of sunbeds, clowning around in the pool, chatting in groups and playing games. It was a nice vibe, if a touch more Costa del Sol than Saint Tropez than I had expected.
We learnt quickly that the passengers were mainly British or American, with a few French, Danish and German thrown into the mix. And the age bracket was most definitely in the 45-plus range. There was some seriously older clientele too, who, to be fair, seemed to be having a whale of a time. Mobility around the different decks is easy, meals are at set times and the numerous lifts whizz up and down with great efficiency, there are tonnes of planned on-board activities — so it’s easy to see why Royal Caribbean cruises appeal to the retired set. That’s not to say there were no younger couples on-board but this was definitely a trip dominated by intrepid pensioners.
In the evening, we ate our first meal at Chops Steakhouse, one of the numerous stylish restaurants. We were seated in a nicely private semicircular booth and the food, when it came, was simple but delicious. The rump steak in particular was cooked to perfection and the special house refreshments were very classy. This actually turned out to be the best meal we had and I wished we’d gone back. But overall dining didn’t disappoint.
One thing that absolutely staggered us was how dressed up our fellow passengers were that evening! We had seen them playing ping pong and minigolf in shorts and T-shirts in the day and here they were, swanning around in dresses and tuxedos. I’ll confess we were ashamed of our casual attire and retreated to our cabin to pile on more make-up, jewellery and body spray. It was actually really enjoyable to see how seriously people were taking this business of cruising. The piano bar in the Colony Club was busy every evening with people sipping beverages, mingling with newfound friends and generally being glamorous. When we finally went to bed, I felt exhausted and slept better than I had in weeks.
First port of call
The next day after eating breakfast in our cabin, we ventured off the boat to have a look round Muscat. Being a UAE resident, I know Oman pretty well but Muscat is a lovely place and my husband and I enjoyed an hour or two browsing Matthrah souq and the harbour. The weather was scorching hot and I noticed a few of the hardy souls from our liner who had decided to join us were suffering. Having lived here for a couple of years now I almost forget what that first hit of Middle East heat is like. Most dived for cover under bench shelters along the shore.
By lunchtime, after stocking up on Oman’s famous frankincense resin in the souq, we found ourselves in a great little nearby café called Nice View. As we ordered Arabic meze and lemon drinks with plenty of ice, we were amused to see familiar faces from the ship pour into the same café. There’s no doubt that the new business from liners such as Brilliance of the Seas means a boost to profits for local businesses. In fact, our waitress could barely deal with the demand for drinks and snacks from all the perspiring, red-faced Westerners.
Back on the boat the pool on the top deck was its usual hive of activity and some noisy holiday games were under way. We relaxed and enjoyed ourselves but I imagine the general boisterousness of the atmosphere on-board wouldn’t suit everyone. However, there are plenty of quiet nooks and crannies if you need a reprieve.
At night we dined at Portofino, which wasn’t bad Italian fare. It just felt a little devoid of atmosphere after the laid-back glamour of Chops Steakhouse. We tried a few small dishes and the simple pasta dishes seemed to be the best choice. There was a good drinks selection to and the house bread served with olive oil, roasted garlic and balsamic vinegar was gorgeous.
Later we took in the night air on the deck and spent a few fun hours in the casino. One thing we both noticed was how willing everyone was to chat. In the lifts, in the restaurants, out on the deck — everyone wanted to gossip. It seemed to be a strange side-effect of the salty air and it made the trip more enjoyable.
Wrapping up a dream
I’m going to confess that next day was a blur of nothingness. We stepped off the boat for an hour in Fujairah to eat at a quirky little Indian-cum-Chinese restaurant called New Sheetal Seafood Restaurant (try the Tom Young Goong soup) and then scurried back to spend the whole day hanging around. We joked that we were developing a village mentality on-board and were starting to shun the outside world.
And so our last evening was spent in the ship’s main open-plan dining area, not eating much and we’d been snacking all day but just eavesdropping and people-watching. That’s what cruise breaks are best for I’ve decided, just observing those around you. There was a raucous singalong in the Colony Club which we joined in with later on, after playing a few games of pool (I won most of the games, I recall — ahem — one for the girls).
The next day, a touch worse for wear, we treated ourselves to a microdermabrasion facial (me) and an Aroma Pure seaweed massage (him), which brought us back to life. The spa facilities, which include a hair salon on the side, are lovely and surprisingly quiet and reasonably priced. Definitely a selling point to the overall cruising experience.
And then it was time to leave our newfound friends, and our cabin that had become home, and jump ship. My husband loved life on the ocean waves and wants to do it again as soon as possible. I enjoyed it too, although I’m not sure how I’d feel on a longer trip — I think I’d need to do some sightseeing during the day just to avoid cabin fever. Royal Caribbean cruises won’t be everyone’s cup of tea but as one old dear in her nineties (who was on ninth trip) told me: “I live for this vacation every year.” You can’t get a better endorsement than that, I guess.
Cruising costs
Royal Caribbean International has 21 ships in service and one on the way. The line also offers cruise tours and land packages in Alaska, Canada, Dubai, Europe, and Australia and New Zealand.
How much?
I stayed in an Ocean View Stateroom which costs $1,300 (Dh4,775) per person for the seven-night cruise.
The set itinerary
- Monday - Dubai, UAE - embark
- Tuesday - Dubai, UAE
- Wednesday - Muscat, Oman
- Thursday - Fujairah, UAE
- Friday - Abu Dhabi, UAE
- Saturday - Mina Sulman, Bahrain
- Sunday - Dubai, UAE
- Monday - Dubai, UAE - disembark
