If further proof were needed that Dubai’s food scene is reaching flaming hotness, the news that none other than Will Smith attended the glamorous opening of Sydney import Toko last week should suffice. How very Los Angeles — Dubai restaurant launches rarely get US-style glitzy openings.
The concern, however, is that a place may fall into the style-over-substance category.
No concern needed for Toko. There’s a reason it’s a hotspot in its home city of Sydney — it’s just really good.
I paid a pre-opening visit to the new Downtown Dubai restaurant (it’s part of what’s becoming a hub of food hotness, sitting next door to the dreamy Le Serre) in December, and I’m still talking about it.
What more can there be to the contemporary Japanese genre when places like Nobu and Zuma have already hit that nail on the head? As Toko shows, there’s still room for more — as long as it’s done in a slick and flavourful way of course — there are plenty of imitators.
At Toko, there’s an open kitchen chock-full of chefs, slicing fish for sushi and fanning red-hot charcoal for some smoky grills, to be served as soon as they are ready in the sultry interior or — fantastic — the outdoor terrace.
For the sushi fans, start off with something from the new-style sashimi, slices of fish topped with punchy sauces that elevate the dish from its ascetic background.
My do-not-miss dish is the incredible scallop sashimi: silky slices of the sweet seafood topped with yuzu — that powerful Japanese citrus that tastes like a menage a trois of lime, orange and grapefruit — made into icy, flaky granita. The contrast of the crunchy ice with the melting scallop is sensational and will convert non-sushi eaters.
This being a pretty high-end spot, there are attempts to incorporate classically fancy Western ingredients such as lobster, foie gras and truffle into Japanese dishes, some more successful than others. The lobster tempura, made with rice crackers, came with high recommendations and stunning presentation, but the tough meat failed to impress. A nigiri sushi with raw sweet scampi (also known as langoustine) topped with finely grated foie gras, however, was a velvety surprise that we couldn’t stop eating.
The kitchen shines again on the robata grill, delivering chargrilled meats, fish and vegetables that are as tender as they are crispy. A great example is the baby chicken namban, which is first poached to ensure juiciness, then grilled and glazed with a sweet and sour topping. You won’t believe how happy one little chicken can make you. Next time, I’ll go back to try the beef rib-eye with smoked miso butter. Beef fans should also check out that slow-cooked shortribs, a melting cut with a rich sauce cut by wasabi creme fraiche.
