Abu Dhabi: For those looking for an unadulterated Italian experience in Abu Dhabi, Mezzaluna could just be the last stop.
Don’t let the opulent environment of Emirates Palace intimidate you. The restaurant has a personality of its own that does not temper down luxury but offers comfort and cosiness.
A few steps into the spacious dining hall and you’ll find yourself sitting on a slightly outmoded yet comfy armchair with your nose up to take in the attention-grabbing décor. Let me warn you though: if you are expecting red and white checkered tablecloths and salamis hanging, you’ll be disappointed. Mezzaluna mixes marble pillars, iconic capitals, design chandeliers, colourful mosaics and contemporary artworks (for sale) with remarkable nonchalance.
The menu on the other hand will fully satisfy your desire for genuine flavours.
The first two pages of Antipasti offered a selection of classics Di Terra, for carnivores and cheese lovers, as well as maritime, Di Mare, options. To make sure we didn’t miss anything, my Italian companion recommended an Antipasto Misto to share. The neatly displayed nine items took me and my dining partner into a culinary excursion from a perfectly cured Bresaola della Valtellina (raw beef from the area around Lake Como) through a classy reinterpretation of Vitello Tonnato, to the chubbiest and juiciest olives you’ve ever had (unless you go to Cinque Terre, says our chef). The journey stretched up to the Northern Sea with a King Crab and Avocado delicatessen before reaching the south for an unforgettable, melt-in-your-mouth Burrata.
When it’s time to order the main dishes, we bet our stakes on the fresh handmade crafted pasta, whose names and formats you’ll hardly find on the shelves of the best supplied shop. Among Paccheri, Pisarei, Casoncelli and Maloreddus, all coming with mouthwatering yet simple sauces, we opted for Stracci (literally rags) with a soothing basil cream and prawn ragu. We also felt a risotto was not to be missed. Already addicted to the Burrata, we disregarded the promising mushrooms and foie gras version and the Venetian Risi e Bisi for Roasted Langoustines, Baby Artichoke and Burrata cheese risotto, difficult to relate any specific Italian recipe but was still quite pleasant to the palate.
Moving forward, the baked lamb loin with olives and bread crust mashed potatoes begged to be eaten, but a lighter baby chicken marinated in thyme and lemon won the quarrel, as it also came accompanied with two small, crispy rolls filled with wild mushrooms. The dish was nice, but left me wishing I had picked Cotoletta instead, perhaps slightly less healthy (being a breaded and fried veal chop in the tradition of Milan) but probably even tastier.
Dessert time was special occasion. As it happened to be my friend’s birthday, we were pleasantly surprised when the chef prepared for us a Bonet with Italian vanilla ice cream and chocolate cubes with a caramel “Happy Birthday” on it.
Sugar shocked, certainly impressed by the authentic quality of the dishes and the frequent visits of the restaurant staff to the tables, we were among the last happy customers stepping out under the night’s full moon.
Details:
Meal for two: Dh600 – Dh1000
Timings: 12.30pm to 3pm, 7pm to 11pm
For bookings contact: 02-690 7999
We recommend: Vitello Tonnato, Burrata, Stracci, baby chicken marinated in thyme and lemon
