After graduating from the Parsons School of Design, New York, he assisted Donna Karan in designing DKNY sportswear and later became the youngest designer to work in the atelier of Oscar de la Renta.
But after honing his craft and design sensibilities, Raghavendra Rathore chose to come back to his roots in Jodhpur to launch his label, Rathore Jodhpur, in 1994.
His creativity extends into many areas of design and his company is involved in diverse design projects ranging from fashion, interior design, furnishing and furniture to uniforms, robotics, jewellery and chocolates.
The designer skilfully blends 1,200 years of family history and heritage with a contemporary and fresh approach in everything he does. He spoke to tabloid! his views on fashion and other creative pursuits during his recent trip to Dubai with the Chivas in Fashion tour.
How do you view Dubai and what are your future plans here?
I am not here only to take a bow on the ramp. I see this not only as a market for fashion but also for hotel uniforms, interior décor, furnishings and furniture. I am also keen to launch my gourmet chocolates here and our exclusive custom-made jewellery line because people here understand quality and exclusivity.
I also want to explore this market for my paintings. I have had some commissions from here and this is a chance for me to better understand the lifestyle of young modern Dubai residents. Finally, like Rajasthan, this is also a desert, and I would like to understand how they have made it so green and beautiful, and take those ideas back.
Does this holistic view of design dilute your brand?
I believe that an artist must not be limited by genres and stretch the rubber band of design as much as possible. By applying design to different things, one can add value to the brand. We have tried various things from boutique hotels and jewellery to Bollywood costumes and have learnt something new from every experience. But unfortunately, it is very difficult to convince the business community that designers too have a business sense.
What did you learn from the experience of designing costumes for the film Eklavya?
It was a great experience to take back to our fashion lines. Observing how Vidhu Vinod Chopra efficiently runs his small unit, we learnt how to run our business better.
Why did you choose to call your label Rathore Jodhpur?
When I was young, I did not think much about culture, heritage or family legacy. I did not understand what my father meant when he said that the desert is an ocean of ideas and as long as you can re-use the resources here, you can do wonders.
But as I spent more time in New York, I began to realise the value of things that are so close and dear to us in Rajasthan. It was just logical for me to go back to the 1,200 years of history and heritage, which reflects in our designs and has helped us create a niche for ourselves so quickly. Whenever we feel we have lost focus, all we have to do is to go into that room in our office that has pictures of everybody who has been there before us and it immediately helps us to focus back on how any product from a mobile phone to a garment can be looked at again from that perspective.
Is the name an asset in the international market?
Although I have worked in the US and understand that market, my focus right now is on the Indian and Middle East markets.
How important is your fashion label in your overall business?
I see fashion as the communication department of my company. Fashion shows are a great way to advertise our design capability and share our vision with people.
What do you think about jodhpurs being so big in fashion now?
Polo-inspired clothing is a natural extension of the current emphasis on luxury. It is good that saris and jodhpurs, which are associated with India, are in the news. I think safari suits will be the next big trend.
How do you see the Chivas in Fashion tour?
It is an opportunity to reach out to new audiences, not only to sell our individual collections but also to promote the Indian fashion industry.
Contemporary classics
Raghavendra Rathore blended classic silhouettes with contemporary trends and the latest techno fabrics with hand-woven Indian textiles to present his perspective on "Indian Modernity" at the Chivas in Fashion tour at the Park Hyatt Dubai on Friday.
Besides dresses and skirts in vibrant prints and a variety of silhouettes, the Jodhpur-based designer also showcased some classic suits, bandgalas and achkans that his label is well known for. The fabrics included velvet, leather, silk and satin in ecru, teal, caramel, ochre, burgundy and olive tones.
