Designers in Dubai took fashion lovers back in time on the first day of Season Two of Fashion Forward, the four-day showcase that began at the Madinat Arena on Tuesday.
If Filipino designer Ezra Santos gave his 1920s industrial revolution theme a modern twist for his eponymous label, the fittingly handsome Golkar brothers of The Emperor 1688 chose the 30s — a time when life was light and fashion was high.
Both labels showed a mixed collection of men’s and womenswear, although Santos, chiefly known for his women’s line, said he only sent out his male models to ‘add a bit of kick’ to the show.
Earlier in the day saw collections from The Starch Foundation designers’ collective and Dubai-based designer Sacha Plumbridge who brought her GisellaBlu label.
Lebanon-based Starch, the brainchild of famed designer Rabih Kayrouz, introduced three distinctly different designers who started the day with a bohemian flair.
Ezra Santos
For more than 10 years, Dubai-based Filipino designer Ezra Santos has been known for his big dreamy dresses finished with his signature embellishments and cut. And for that long, he’s had a tight grasp on the bridal wear market, chiefly targeted at his predominantly Gulf Arab clientele.
But on Tuesday, the diminutive designer took a slightly different route in his ode to the 1920s called ‘Divine Romanticism’.
“I’ve been known for making clothes that follow one visual link — it’s always five pieces of reds followed by five pieces of beige and then black But this time I wanted to go out of the box,” he said.
Each of Santos’ 30 pieces was different, digging into his rich repertoire of couture-inspired elegant and extravagant designs. Each, it also seemed, was targeted at his increasingly varied clientele — something to wear at a high profile Khaleeji wedding, or something for a red carpet event.
The mixture fell into his theme: A time, he said, when everything was being invented. His designs were as vibrant as the materials he used as he played with lace, tulle and even crystal embroidery.
“Everything was new then, from fashion to machines, to cosmetics. So I wanted to bring that time frame alive in my collection.
“Also it’s like the early days of couture where every single piece was different. It doesn’t have to be cohesive, but it makes sense in a way.”
Santos also sent out a few male models, many of them dressed in skirts and leggings, because, he said, he wanted to add a bit of fun.
Whether or not it’s for an upcoming menswear collection, he didn’t want to say. “It’s just a teaser,” he laughed.
The Emperor 1688
If their last collection was heavy with geometric prints with a formal edge, the three brothers behind this Dubai menswear brand are feeling light and airy this season.
Starting with a bright yellow ensemble jacket and short ensemble, topped with a boater hat, Babak, Haman and Farhan Golkar took attendees back to a manor house in the thirties. And it’s definitely spring time at The Emperor 1688 as forest-inspired prints met bright pinks and shorts dominated. Trousers were very slim, cropped high above the ankle, while lapels morphed from narrow to classic to shawl.
Known for their precise tailoring, the brothers stayed true to their character bringing that unique touch that makes their clothes look so luxurious.
It was the same for women, which was largely inspired by menswear, taking advantage of the current hot trend.
With such consistency, it’s really no surprise why this Dubai-born brand has grown from strength to strength as the brothers prepare for bigger things in the US market.
Starch Foundation
It’s no secret that the Lebanese love a bit of bling. But the three emerging designers from that region handpicked by Rabih Kayrouz and Tala Hajjar for non-profit organisation Starch is not one of them.
There were no sparkling stones in their Spring Summer collection but what shone through were the clean cuts and impeccable tailoring. Beirut’s Hussain Bazaza got the show on the road with his collection entitled 335. White dresses with hints of red lace and scarlet gown with ruffles in the middle and slits on the bodice were the highlights. While the frocks were pretty, the gowns made of transparent fabric in champagne and long sleeves with white piping were also rolled out. While his collection was chic and sexy, what came from Lara Khoury’s stock were bohemian and wild. Models with sand-kissed feet sashayed into the runways wearing oversized shirts, skimpy shorts and T-shirts with insect motifs on them.
“My collection is inspired from Kafka’s The Metamorphosis where a guy finds himself waking up as an insect. It’s a quirky collection,” said Khoury. Her clothes weren’t structured and casual.
“My clothes are meant for women who dare to wear them,” said Khoury. While she took pride in her perfect-for-beach attires, Bashar Assaf made minimalism his own. Long sleeved white and grey shirts in crepe paired with tailored trousers, jumpsuits and cropped tops with slit-high skirts were a part of his collection entitled “Hallucinations”.
“I have always believed in staying true to my identity. I like clean, minimalist looks. Though the design is complex I want my women to feel it’s wearable,” said Assaf.
(With inputs by Manjusha Radhkrishnan, Senior Reporter)
Don’t miss it
FFWD runs from October 15 to 18 at the Madinat Arena, Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai. Entry to the catwalk shows is for trade and by prior registration only. A limited number of general admission tickets to the venue, including access to The Garden exhibition, Fashion Cafes and selected talks are available for Dh50 per person per day. For tickets and to register, go to fashionforward.ae
