Let’s face it, racial diversity has never been a strong point on the catwalk at major fashion weeks, and Milan is no exception.
While skinny, pre-teen, pale boys were what Ermenegildo Zegna and Salvotore Ferragamo preferred, Versace went for the hunky, impossibly toned pale boys. And they were all so white.
It’s a tricky one isn’t it? And so uncomfortable to discuss. Yet so little has actually been done about it.
But economics is slowly changing things, I think. Thanks to massive opportunities in Asia, many of these brands are having to please customers from that part of the world. It was evident in the sheer number in attendance at all the shows, from buyers to journalists. I also spotted a few Asian models — two at the Philipp Plein show, two at Tod’s and one at Versace.
I started my day with the Salvatore Ferragamo show. And boy, did creative director Massimiliano Giornetti put out an impressive collection.
The clothes were soft and light and sophisticated. Giornetti’s take on the safari jacket, many of them cinched by a belt at the waist, was worth a second glance. And he sent out variations of those to great effect.
Fluidity was the name of the game. Trousers were loose and easy while the shoes, many of them with fringes, completed the look.
Tod’s, known for its luxury shoes and leather goods, invited guests to an art gallery where, instead of a catwalk show, models just hung around on elevated stages in multiple rooms.
For a label known for its accessories, it’s a great idea, giving people the chance to appreciate the products more intimately. Someone forgot to turn up the air conditioning, though. And as the venue filled up, fashionistas turned into sweaty messes, some rushing to get out into the porch for some fresh air.
Diego Della Valle, the billionaire head of Tod’s was in attendance, being trailed by a number of cameras wherever he went. The eccentric Italian is widely credited for turning his family’s shoe-making business into a major international name in luxury goods. Watch out for my interview with him coming soon.
Speaking of sweaty messes, Prada’s show space was, however, calm and cool. Held inside an indoor swimming pool — Philipp Plein’s was by a pool, too — for that true summer vibe, Miuccia Prada’s collection had a air of familiarity. It was very Prada, very classic, almost like a rehash, but not really.
Seventies-style top stitching was a connecting thread as it appeared on jackets, coats and accessories. Prada teased with a few womenswear pieces too.
While sombre overall, the collection was still very well-defined and classy. And that is what I mean by ‘very Prada’.
