Most people who ski know the French Alps is one of the best destinations in the world. The same people also know that it is also one of the priciest. So when our group of four from Dubai decided to ditch Lebanon this year in the wake of political unrest and invest in a March trip to one of Europe’s heavyweight ski destinations, initially France didn’t figure in our list of options.
As some of us were on a tight budget, we began searching for flights and accommodation in less expensive destinations such as Andorra. However, once we discovered that Qatar Airways flights to Geneva, the main airport serving the French Alps, were reasonably priced (Dh2,400), attention turned to Les Alps.
Within a few days, flights were booked and a frantic search for accommodation began – only to realise that booking just a month in advance meant there was limited availability and high prices.
In the end, we were lucky to find the last few rooms at the budget Doron Hotel in Méribel, costing Dh700 per night for a small two-person room, which the owners explained would be “very noisy as it was directly over the resort’s busiest live music venue”.
However, the room was also next door to the village’s ski lift and cheaper than other alternatives. So we booked it.
The trip involved a few hours of layover at Qatar airport but soon we were on our way to Switzerland. As the plane banked to land in Geneva, the scene below provided the first flutter of excitement. For snow sport enthusiasts, the city framed by the white peaks of the impressive French Alps looks perfect.
A pre-booked minibus can collect you from the airport and drive you the two-hour trip to your hotel for around Dh500 per person one way. Alternatively, for Dh7,000 and in 30 minutes, you can arrive there by helicopter. However, we were lucky to have a Swiss friend and his French-only speaking brother – quickly dubbed le hill frogs – speed us in their car along the mountain roads. Once you leave the highway the road turns into a winding and steep ascent.
Staying in party central
As you enter the village of Méribel, there are newer chalets and expensive-looking hotels lining either side of the main road. With a mix of bars and restaurants in the main hub, it is widely regarded as the party centre of the Three Valleys (or Les Trois Vallées), which also includes the resorts of Courchevel, La Tania, Brides-Les-Bains, Les Menuires – Saint Martin, Val Thorens and Orelle. Bang in the middle of the world’s largest ski area, Méribel has over 600km of pistes, and at an elevation of 1,600m, benefits from favourable snow conditions.
Méribel can be more expensive and busier during periods when there has been a lot of snowfall or during French holidays – which is a good time to visit for those who enjoy meeting new people during their après ski. The season runs from the end of December until the end of April, depending upon snow conditions and a six-day Three Valleys ski lift pass costs Dh1,300.
Our hotel was at the top of the hill and was definitely the oldest-looking chalet-style hotel, boasting in big white letters “The Pub”, claiming to be, “Méribel’s largest bar and number one for live music and entertainment. Après Ski 5-7pm, seven nights live bands 10:30pm until 1am, happy hours and promos every night.”
The person who took our booking had told us the truth after all.
Doron Hotel – which was our home for the next seven days – had a fusty smell, but the rooms were basic but clean. On good days, we had enough hot water for a bath. The rooms offered uninterrupted mountain views. However, we weren’t there to enjoy our rooms.
During our trip, snow conditions varied every day with the changeable weather taking us through every phase, from dry and icy to snowing and un-groomed.
If you need equipment, it costs around Dh500 to hire boots and skis or snowboard for a week, which can be purchased in advance online by credit card. As always, make sure your boots fit properly or the first day of skiing will hurt. If in doubt, swap before leaving the shop.
Time to hit the slopes
When you hit the slopes as a group, it’s a good idea to take mobile phones and agree on meeting places as we lost one of our phoneless members after less than a minute of taking off down the slopes only to find him through pure chance.
We all gravitated towards the skiing in the Courchevel area, which boasts some breathtaking runs, superior off-piste options, a fun boardercross course and a giant air bag to cheat for dramatic pictures of somersaults minus the broken neck.
It was best not to leave it too late for lunch every day or we might have missed out on the plat de jour, which was usually the tastiest and slightly cheaper dish on the menu.
We enjoyed the free tap water, which was so cold it frosted the glass as it came out of the tap and tasted better than any bottled water you care to mention.
Over lunch, you’ll find yourself talking to other diners about the skiing, food and life in general, as everyone usually is in great spirits. For people on a budget, do what the seasonnaires (people who work there) do: take a few cheap items from the bakery and a bottle of water before heading for the slopes to save the cost of lunch.
Having skied in Canada and other European resorts, one of the elements that sets France apart is the après ski. A particular highlight is the Rond Pont, nicknamed The Roni, near the bottom of the Méribel ski out. People flock there from surrounding resorts to listen to live music. (The Feeling played an impromptu gig one day.) Everyone burns off the last of the day’s energy dancing before an epic final ski down in the dark with only moon light to guide the way.
Après ski drinks can become expensive, so ask the seasonnaires where to go for happy hours – as this is where the party usually is anyway.
On our penultimate day, we woke up and looked out our window to a truly magical sight – the fir trees all the way down to the bottom of the slopes were heavily dusted with snow. By the time we had finished breakfast and walked to the chairlift, the sun broke through, lighting up glorious blue skies. We had a feeling that it would be a special day but no one knew quite how special until we reached the top of the mountain and looked in awe across the powder snow sparkling in the bright sun – there was not a scrap of a cloud in sight. It was a perfect day, a day of discovering off-piste runs and experiencing the sensation of the pillowy wake as we made our own fresh tracks in the virgin snow.
However, the famous mountain unpredictability struck on the last day. Hoping to find a repeat of the previous wondrous day, we woke up to thick fog cutting off the tops of the mountain’s fir trees. This didn’t bode well for our grand finale. However, the day wasn’t completely ruined as we found patches on the mountain where the cloud cover wasn’t as thick. In fact, the final run was a precarious ski of faith as we attempted to find our way home using intuition and route memory built up over the week.
Away from the slopes
Off the slopes, there are plenty of interesting things to do in Méribel.
Though we were there to ski, we enjoyed a day off the slopes. We sat outside a café in the sun (I recommend the terrace of the La Tavernè) resting our weary legs. If you’re lucky you’ll meet some eccentric locals, such as the Frenchman who unclipped his parrot cage from his back and sat down to enjoy a coffee with us.
We strolled around the traditional bakeries and cheese shops. When we asked for the smelliest cheese they had, Beaufort from the Savoie region was recommended, and accepted.
In the evening we wandered around the dimly lit streets exploring the village, finding attractions such as a floodlit outdoor hot spa, which sent steam high into the night sky.
Other options for those who don’t want to party after a tiring day skiing, is to sit it out at the cinema.
Ensure you set aside one night to enjoy a traditional French meal of frog’s legs and snails. Go all out for the fondue and fry your own tender steak in boiling oil before dipping it in melted cheese. Be prepared for the visit of the “cheese demons” though when you try to sleep. Other tips? Stay clear of pizzas, as these are best left to the Italians.
Also, you are at an altitude, so drink lots of water and wear sun block and a pair of good shades.
It’s also smart to change your money before you travel as most places will not change dirhams. We spotted many tourists using iPhone applications to help them communicate in French, but the locals usually speak decent English. However cast technology aside and have some fun speaking French, regardless of how poor it is.
You can believe the hype
France is a ski destination that lives up to the hype – especially if you enjoy socialising and après ski. A ski trip is best done in a group and is certainly more relaxing and luxurious if sharing a chalet. Make sure you get your accommodation organised months in advance while there are good deals and plenty of options to choose from. Despite your enthusiasm for skiing, you do need some nights of rest and it’s not easy to get it when you are directly above a loud nightclub and your teeth are vibrating to the bass from Bob Marley’s Buffalo Soldier.
That apart, we had an amazing time in Méribel and would recommend it to anyone. Exhausted from the week’s exertions and after one last late night to toast the hill, the flight back via Doha seemed long.
So the final piece of advice: Book yourself a few days off to recover once you return.
Ian Hainey is a Dubai-based freelancer
