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Some of my earliest and fondest kitchen memories are of making pudding with my grandmother. I remember standing on the step stool at her stove, stirring — and stirring — the pot of warm, cocoa-y milk until at last it began to thicken. I thought its transformation from liquid to lava was absolutely magical.

After we poured it into little glass ramekins and put it in the refrigerator to set, the wait to eat it seemed endless. Looking back, I think there was something about the process and the anticipation of it that added to the experience.

In today’s instant-pudding world, I treasure the slowed-down, old-fashioned method more than ever. Besides bringing back good memories and connecting me with a dearly departed matriarch, recreating this dessert at home from scratch means I can also tailor it to get my creamy chocolate fix in a more healthful way.

To do that, I use 1 per cent milk, which provides just enough body and, of course, a wealth of nutrients while keeping saturated fat and calories low. Using high-quality unsweetened cocoa powder means there’s some real antioxidant power, too. (Be sure to get “un-Dutched” or “natural” cocoa powder, because the Dutching process, an alkaline treatment, destroys the protective compounds.) I double the rich chocolate flavour by melting in a chunk of dark chocolate at the end, and I keep added sugar to a minimum so the pudding is just sweet enough.

Like grandmother, I serve mine in small ramekins for perfect, petite portions. In fact, I use the same ones she did.

Double Chocolate Pudding

4 servings (makes 2 1/2 cups)

Make ahead: The pudding needs to set in the refrigerator for at least three hours; it can be refrigerated for up to three days.

From nutritionist and cookbook author Ellie Krieger.

Ingredients

1/3 cup granulated sugar

2 tbs unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably not Dutch-process

2 tbs plus 1 tsp cornstarch

2 cups cold low-fat milk (1 per cent)

1 tsp pure vanilla extract

30g dark chocolate (60 to 70 per cent cacao), finely chopped, plus optional chocolate shavings, for garnish

1/4 tsp salt

Whipped cream for serving (optional)

Steps

Whisk together the sugar, cocoa and cornstarch in a medium saucepan (off the heat). Gradually add the milk, whisking until smooth.

Place over medium heat; cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and starts to bubble at the edges, about six minutes. Reduce the heat to low; cook, whisking frequently, for a minute, then remove from heat.

Add the vanilla extract and the dark chocolate, stirring until the chocolate has melted and the mixture is smooth. Stir in the salt. Transfer to a serving bowl, individual dessert bowls or ramekins. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set, at least three hours and up to three days.

Serve garnished with a small dollop of whipped cream and a sprinkling of chocolate shavings, if desired.

Nutrition per serving: 180 calories, 5g protein, 32g carbohydrates, 4g fat, 3g saturated fat, 5mg cholesterol, 230mg sodium, 2g dietary fibre, 26g sugar

— Washington Post