People feel strongly indeed about bolognese meat sauce, to the extent that, earlier this year, a group of Italian chefs organised a worldwide day of action to promote the "authentic" recipe, as laid down by the Academia Italiana della Cucina back in 1982. The event was billed as a protest against the "improbable concoctions" served under the name around the globe, with an official decrying the "remarkable variety of ingredients" that defiled his beloved bolognese — including cream.
The fact is that there is no definitive recipe for a bolognese meat sauce but to be worthy of the name, it should respect the area's traditions.
The classic Italian cookery book, The Silver Spoon, gives a ragu alla bolognese in its most basic form: minced steak, onion, celery, carrot and tomato purée, cooked for 90 minutes with a little water to keep it moist. The result is tasty enough but doesn't deliver the richness of flavour I would expect from a real Italian meat sauce. The recipe hints it can be adapted for use with "mixed meats", so I go on the hunt for something a little more interesting.
Elizabeth David's recipe features minced beef, chicken livers and chopped mutton, besides the usual vegetables, stock, tomato purée and nutmeg. The liver gives the sauce more depth, although it's slightly overpowering in this quantity.
Marcella Hazan, the queen of Italian cookery across the pond, calls for "ground beef chuck" in her bolognese recipe.
Having far preferred the texture of hand-minced meat in my shepherd's pie, I experiment with this one too; the sauce cooks for more than three hours, which should be more than enough time for the slightly larger chunks of meat to soften. But the very chewiness which worked so well with the soft mash is all wrong with pasta, so it's back to the ready-minced stuff.
The key area of debate is the addition of dairy products, which feature heavily in the cuisine of the area, and, according to Hazan, whose recipe simmers the milk away, enhance the taste of the meat.
Hazan's recipe calls for the sauce to be cooked for "three hours, or more".
Heston Blumenthal, of course, takes this to a whole new level, by adapting her recipe so it cooks in a very low oven (110°C) for "at least six hours". He also adds a "totally unconventional ingredient" in the form of star anise, which apparently enhances the flavour of the meat without being discernible in the finished dish.
Despite rendering me housebound for the best part of a day, I have to admit the results are incredible; tender, rich and meaty, without any beef stock, it's almost worth staying in for. I can definitely taste the star anise, though.
There is no such thing as an "authentic" ragu alla bolognese but to stay true to the spirit of the dish, meat and milk, rather than tomatoes, should be the key flavours. Cook long and slow, and serve with anything but spaghetti.
Servings: 4
II Butter, a generous knob
II 1 onion, finely diced
II 1 carrot, finely diced
II 2 sticks celery, finely diced
II 250g beef, coarsely minced
II 40g chicken liver, finely chopped
II 150ml whole milk
II Nutmeg, to grate
II 400g tin plum tomatoes
Melt the butter in a casserole set over a gentle heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, then tip in the carrot and cook for five minutes. Add the celery and cook for two more minutes.
Crumble beef into pan and brown. Season, then stir in the liver. Cook for five minutes.
Pre-heat the oven to 125°C. Pour milk and grate nutmeg on top. Simmer until the milk has evaporated. Add tomatoes and stir. Put the casserole into the oven, with the lid slightly ajar and cook for at least three hours or until the meat is tender. Check on it occasionally and top with a little water if it seems too dry. Serve with pasta or gnocchi and grated Parmesan or pecorino cheese.
Bolognese meat sauce
