What women want

In a culture where men dominate offices and women by tradition are relegated to home and family, Seoul's metropolitan government has laid out its "visions and challenges" in a dozen categories ranging from "women-friendly restroom" to "women-friendly workplace".

"We have developed a new paradigm for urban policy, a women-friendly policy," is the bold claim of the city's deputy mayor, Ra Jin-goo. "For the first time, we have introduced women-friendly policies in all areas of design."

For all the fine words, however, Korean women tend to view the plans with scepticism, observing that most of them are not only unfulfilled but hidden from view except in showcase projects.

"Personally I don't know where those ‘women-friendly' places are," says one Korean woman. "I never see them."

Women ask whether Korean culture can ever shed its macho image and wonder if the mayor of Seoul, Oh Se-hoon, has come up with the programme with an eye on the female vote if he runs for president in 2012. "Women's rights are talked about mostly by activists," says Shin Hei-soo, a professor at Ewha Woman's University, whose 10,000 students make it the world's largest all-female institution of higher learning. "Of course, there is the political ambition of Mayor Oh. And there are different perceptions of what men see and what women want."

In fact, the role of women outside the home has increased immensely over the past century — and especially since the Korean War. Women fill offices and campuses and have come to assume certain managerial positions — though many are just as likely to quit their jobs after getting married.

Lee Ji-won, international coordinator at the Seoul Foundation of Women and Family, questions whether a law passed three years ago to protect the rights of women is making much difference.

"Institutionally, we have the relevant law," she says, "but in our daily life the pattern has not really changed." She says the law "protects women from sexual violence and discrimination" but for many women the right to work means they really have two jobs. "We have to work in the labour force," says Lee, "but traditionally we have the same roles as daughters and mothers."

Still, Seoul officials seem dead serious about addressing women's concerns when it comes to everyday issues such as restrooms and parking areas.

"In terms of the urban environment, there is still a lack of respect and consideration for women," says Park Hyun-kyung, president of the Seoul Foundation of Women and Family. "Women have always been at the forefront and centre of urban collaboration but society has failed to consider them accordingly."

Consider the restroom. Seoul's guidelines: "Provide enough numbers and area for practical use of toilet and improve inconvenience to wait longer than necessary," begins the official English translation. "Avoid odd situations to face each other in front of the bathroom between different gender by placing the entrance in different direction."

Then it is on to "women-friendly parking area", with plans, among other things, for "women-privileged parking lot [with reserved spots for women]", "security and alarm system", "comfortable underground parking area" — and, of course, "women-friendly restroom in parking lots".

Regardless of superficial changes, for Korean women who have grown up overseas, immersion in the culture and society of their parents and grandparents can be a shock.

"When I got here, certain parts of life here were not so friendly," says Linda Behk, raised and educated through college and graduate school in New York. The problem, she says, goes far beyond the reach of elaborate "solutions" from Seoul City Hall.

"People are more self-conscious about how people see them," she says. "And there is some bias in work. There are certain age limits. Some places feel a little down on women and they feel self-conscious about them."

For all such sensitivities, however, attitudes are shifting.

"In my generation, women were always intimidated by aggressive men," says Won Hyeon-suk, showing a group of foreign women around the Kyongbuk Palace complex on a tour that emphasises the historic role of women. "Now, my son says he's intimidated by aggressive females."

As evidence of the change, she notes that 36 per cent of those who passed the rigorous Korean bar examination this year were women in comparison with less than 1 per cent when she was in college 30 years ago.

At City Hall, Cho Eun-hee, assistant mayor responsible for women and family policy, is confident that "Korean men are changing". The goal is "to make Seoul the happiest place in the world", says Lee Jong-suk, former president of Sookmyung Women's University. "If women do not feel happy in the city, the city is not viable."