A fresh feel

America, it has been said, suffers from too much geography and not enough history. And there is a certain sense of mid-American sameness that pervades its many cities. Big towers, suburban malls, deserted and shuttered downtown cores and history that's consigned to State and National Parks or overfriendly smiling guides in reproduction 19th-century uniforms and cowboy outfits. Yee ha!

Gladly, Philadelphia breaks the mould and shatters those prejudgements and misconceptions.

Yes, it has those towers. But it also has charm. History. Architecture. Real people really living downtown. Charming cafés, bistros and bars. History in your face from the very day the Founding Fathers declared independence from their British colonial masters and set the longest dream in nation-building on its path.

It has a downtown that's vibrant, where, weather permitting April through October, alfresco dining on the sidewalk is charming, lazy, relaxing and surprisingly enjoyable, without the homeless with their demand for change that's pervasive in Washington.

History is everywhere. Like Independence Hall. With their revolutionary war against the British failing, America's leaders still had the strength of will and character to forge the notions of constitution, nationhood, democratic principles of government — by, for and of its people.

The weather in early September allowed me to exercise my right, like those of Philadelphia's citizens, to bare arms as I delved mouth first into a classic cheesesteak sandwich at Campo's — rated the best eatery in the city by those who know such things. Yep, they were right. Tender fried steak strips and sweet grilled onions topped with a generous lathering of luminous yellow Cheez Whiz. I admit, on first glance, the colour was a little off-putting. But gee whiz, Cheez Whiz works wonders. Yummie!

The large riverside area of old Philadelphia isn't just a tourist trap. Its red-bricked buildings with wonderfully wobbly and crooked granite steps and cobblestoned streets are vibrant. Families live there. Lawyers work there and artists and galleries thrive in the narrow streets and eclectic courtyard-styled apartments where dogs can be walked freely and neighbours are friendly — not cloistered strangers in sterile highrises.

It's a city in love with its baseball — The Phillies, its (American) football — The Eagles; its hockey — The Flyers; and its basketball — The 76ers.

If you want to visit any of these games, try online. Or sit in the lobby of your hotel and watch fans drive in from all over the country to follow their beautiful games and teams.

And its subway system is simple, easy to use, cheap and convenient. Buy a ticket for Camden and you'll be whisked across the Ben Franklin Bridge on the New Jersey side — there the shuttered shops and deserted downtown core is a reality. And you'll look across the river and try to figure out in which movie you saw the scenes below. Nicholas Cage in National Treasure? Mark Wahlberg in Shooter? Or Sylvester Stallone in any of his Rocky movies. And you can even run up the steps in true Rocky Balboa fashion or get your photograph taken in front of the real Rocky monument.

After my all-too-brief visit to the streets of Philadelphia, I'll be looking for a return trip. There's simply too much to see. And not an overly cheerful Disney-style guide in sight. Now, isn't that a reason to return in itself!

Franklin Square

Franklin Square, one of Philadelphia's five original public squares laid out by William Penn in his original plan for the city, has undergone a dramatic renovation. The park now boasts several family-friendly attractions, including a miniature golf course, classic carousel, burger joint, storytelling bench, picnic area and more.

Longwood Gardens

When you're at Longwood Gardens, it's easy to imagine that you're at a giant, royal garden in Europe. Stroll along the many paths through acres of exquisitely maintained grounds featuring 11,000 different types of plants.

Philadelphia Museum of Art

The vast collections of this temple of art make it the third-largest art museum in the country and an absolute must-see on the city's cultural circuit.

The Rocky Statue

One of Philadelphia's most famous pieces of public art is a bigger-than-life boxer … literally. Originally created for Rocky III, the sculpture is now a real-life monument to a celluloid hero. The fictional Rocky Balboa of Sylvester Stallone's Rocky movies was immortalised in bronze in 1980. After filming for the movie completed, Stallone donated the statue to the City of Philadelphia.

Independence Hall

The guided tour of Independence Hall, led by National Park rangers, begins in the courtroom where lawyers from opposing sides shared tables and law books.

George Washington's "rising sun" chair dominates the Assembly Room, which is arranged as it was during the Constitutional Convention. In the adjacent West Wing, the original inkstand used to sign the Declaration and an original draft of the Constitution are displayed.

Valley Forge National Historic Park

Of all the places associated with America's War for Independence, none convey the suffering, sacrifice and ultimate triumph of the nation more than Valley Forge. No battles were fought here; no bayonet charges or artillery bombardments took place. Nonetheless, some 2,000 soldiers died. Valley Forge is the story of an army's epic struggle to survive against terrible odds, hunger, disease and the unrelenting forces of nature.

National Constitution Centre

It's only four pages long, but the US Constitution is among the most influential and important documents in the history of the world. The 160,000-square-foot National Constitution Centre explores and explains this amazing document through high-tech exhibits, artefacts and interactive displays. The Kimmel Theatre, a 350-seat star-shaped theatre, features Freedom Rising a multimedia production combining film, a live actor and video projection on a 360° screen to tell the stirring story of "We the people".

The Franklin Institute

In 1824, The Franklin Institute opened in Independence Hall to honour Benjamin Franklin and his inventiveness. In 1934, with the construction of the present building and the adjacent Fels Planetarium, it became a hands-on science museum. The IMAX Theatre and the Mandell Centre were added in 1990. Today, it's Pennsylvania's most visited museum. In the museum's rotunda is the Benjamin Franklin National Memorial, with a 20-foot-tall marble statue of the scientist and Founding Father.

The Barnes Foundation

The Barnes Foundation was created in 1922, a school originating with Barnes's educational experimentation in his Argyrol (pharmaceutical) factory. Barnes and The Foundation's first director of education, John Dewey, were interested in fostering cognitive development through new approaches to education and in heightening critical-thinking and problem-solving skills through the study of art. Barnes, like Dewey, was actively engaged in development of an intellectual framework and educational philosophies and practices with many of the best artists and thinkers of his day.

The Liberty Bell Centre

The bell now called the Liberty Bell was cast in the Whitechapel Foundry in the East End of London and sent to the building now known as Independence Hall, then the Pennsylvania State House, in 1753.