A new queen emerges

The success of the twelfth Association of South East Asian Nations Summit and the accompanying second East Asia Summit in January placed Cebu, the Philippines' oldest city, firmly on the tourism map.

The presentation was lavish, the organisation effective, the host — Cebuanos — warmly receptive, and the standards, world-class.

Since its international debut, Cebu has managed to transform itself from the bustling trade port it was during pre-colonial times into a commercial and industrial powerhouse of central and southern Philippines, and a major economic player in the country today.

Small wonder

Approaching Cebu from air, the island province seems rugged, with low peaks crowning the centre of the island and levelling out progressively towards the northern and southern extremes.

Only a few natural forests survive in Cebu today and among them are the 15,393-hectare Central Cebu National Park and the 696-hectare Sudlon National Park.

Along its coastline, there is a narrow strip of land where all six cities — Cebu, Danao, Lapu-Lapu, Mandaue, Toledo and Talisay and 47 municipalities are located.

Off the east coast of Mactan is an expanse of mangroves and mudflats on Olango Island, the country's most important habitat for migratory wetland birds. Then there are historical buildings, immaculate beaches and magnificent marine life.

All the wonders fit into a 4,400sqkm area on the 300km long, 40km wide island, which is home to around three million people and located at the very heart of the Philippine archipelago.

Tourist interest

The sea lanes through the archipelago played a vital role in the galleon trade between Acapulco and Manila during pre-colonial times, and also helped bring boatloads of Jesuit, Dominican, Franciscan and Augustinian missionaries.

Before the arrival of the Spaniards in 1521, ships carrying Asian traders from the East Indies, Siam (Thailand) and China bartered beads, gold, ceramics and other exotic wares with the natives of the fishing village of Zubu.

The coastline, inevitably, moulded Cebu's character. Spanish colonists, led by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, arrived in Cebu in 1565 and established the first city in the Philippines. Cebu became the de facto capital of the Spanish colony in the Asia Pacific.

Though Cebu's tryst with tourism is fairly recent, "[today], it is the primary destination of approximately 30 to 35 per cent of foreign and local tourists," says Jenny Franco, president of the National Association of Independent Travel Agencies, Cebu Chapter, and director of the Travel Cooperative of the Philippines. "We are seeing a growing number of tourists from Japan, Korea, US, Britain, Germany, Australia and Russia."

This tourist interest comes as no surprise.

"Three centuries in a convent followed by 50 years in Hollywood" — that is how local residents describe the 300 years of Spanish rule and influences from the US, China, India and Arabia. The history of Cebu is a tapestry of colourful threads — some of which lead back to prehistoric times.

The 16th century influences can be found in Magellan's Cross, Cebu's most important historical landmark.

To walk its cobblestones in Plaza Hamabar is to walk in the footsteps of Spanish conquistador Ferdinand Magellan (Hernando de Magallanes), who erected a large wooden crucifix at the site to commemorate the first communal baptisms.

If the Magellan's Cross is the oldest landmark in Cebu, the Senor Santo Nino, is the oldest and most religious relic in the country.

Chequered history

It is also the main symbol of the coming of Christianity to the islands. Now, it is enshrined at the Basilica Minore Del Santo Nino, one of the Philippines' oldest churches. The Basilica is the centre of intense devotion and religious pilgrimages throughout the Visayas Region.

The Mactan Shrine in Punta Engano houses the monument of Lapu-Lapu, also called Rajah Cilapulapu, the local chieftain who, on April 27, 1521, repelled Magellan's first foray.

Near Lapu-Lapu's shrine is a white obelisk, marking the spot where Magellan was eventually slain in battle.

In the 1543 expedition, Ruy de Villalobos landed in Mindanao (the third group of islands that comprise southernmost Philippines) and named the archipelago Filipinas after Crown Prince Felipe II.

In 1565, Miguel Lopez de Legazpi gained a foothold in Cebu and founded the first Spanish settlement in the Philippines and Asia.

Interestingly, Cristobal Colon, better known as Christopher Columbus, also finds citation — it is after him that the country's oldest street, Colon in Parian, is named.

The Heritage of Cebu monument in Parian, where Eduardo Castrillo's sculptural tableau, depicting local history, is displayed, is also a must-see.

This tableau includes Rajah Humabon (a local king), conquistadors, the galleon trade, the Second World War with Cebuano leader Sergio Osmena Sr and the beatification of Filipino martyr, Pedro Calungsod.

The nearby Casa Gorordo Museum has artefacts and memorabilia from the Spanish colonial period that capture Cebu's 19th-century lifestyle.

The Fuerza de San Pedro or Fort San Pedro, founded in the 17th-century, is the smallest and oldest tri-bastion fort built to repel attacks by foreign raiders.

Some of the original structures are intact even today — the 15th-century gun emplacement, Spanish cannons, Cuerpo de Guardia, or the house of guards, Viviendo del Teniente, or the living quarters of the highest official, can be seen from the park grounds.

Cebu preserves its past with a succession of lively fiestas, festivals and old-fashioned holidays. And the people know how to celebrate, a fact that is evident in January, when Cebu celebrates its beloved Sinulog Festival, honouring the Image of Senor Santo Nino while toasting the heritage, culture and spirit of the community.

If history is not up your street, drive in either direction of the island and choose from the endless spread of white, powdery beaches, lined by hotels and resorts — from Bantayan in the north to Alegria in the south.

Natural beauty

My latest discovery — Camotes Islands, just two hours east of Danao City, offers authenticity, idyllic charm, sweet solitude and inland discoveries, such as Tudela's Bukilat Cave, Boho Rock and Poro Church, which dates back to 1847.

The centrepiece is the placid Lake Danao, rich in marine life. The resort looks out to a stunning coastline and blue waters, with opportunities to kayak and snorkel.

Spectacular is certainly a word that applies to diving in Malapascua, Pescador and Sumilon, where you can swim with white-tip, grey and hammerhead sharks, and playful spinner dolphins; or explore Japanese World War II shipwrecks. Though the diving season is from November to June, visibility is best from March to June.

Bird watchers should include an excursion to Olango Island, southeast of Mactan on Cebu's east coast, to their list of "not-to-miss" spots.

The Olango Birds and Seascape Tour, conducted by the Suba Olango Ecotour Cooperative is designed to allow visitors to see shorebirds in their natural habitat; watch the clam gatherers of Hilutungan Island and observe sea farmers tend to their seaweed gardens.

From Malapascua Island in the north to the heritage trail in the south — where you encounter centuries-old Spanish churches in Oslob, heritage homes in Carcar and shrines in Simala, Cebu offers vibrant recollections of its past and a wondrous variety of places to visit and things to see and do.

So the next time you visit the Philippines, give yourself the surprise of your life: visit Cebu, the queen city of the south.

— Christina Camingue Buo is a UAE-based freelance writer

Go there...Cebu

From the UAE
Cathay Pacific flies daily via Hong Kong to Cebu from Dubai.

Qatar Airways flies five days a week via Doha to Cebu from Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

How much
Cathay Pacific fare: Starts from Dh1,800 exclusive of taxes.

Qatar Airways fare: Starts from Dh1,630 exclusive of taxes.

— Information courtesy: Al Tayer Travel Agency

Where to stay
Hilton Cebu Resort & Spa sales@hiltoncebu.com

Plantation Bay Resort & Spa www.plantationbay.com

Shangri-La's Mactan Island Resort & Spa www.shangri-la.com

Marco Polo Hotel – www.resv.ceb@marcopolohotels.com

Information
The dry season lasts from January or February to May. Rainy season is from June to December or January. Daytime temperatures range from 30°C in January to 37°C in May.

Diving in Malapascua
Blue Water Beach Resort: +63 918 9199128

Cocobana Beach Resort: +63 32 437 1007

Diving in Moalboal
Cora Palm Court: +63 32 474 0103

Savedra Beach Resort: +63 32 474 0014

Sumisid Lodge/Sea Quest: +63 32 346 9629

For details on the Olango Island Wildlife Sanctuary, prccebu@usc.edu.ph

For tourist assistance and services travelvisioncebu@gmail.com

Deptartment of Tourism Central Visayas dotregion7@gmail.com