Bespoke men's tailors Leonard Logsdail and Ray Stowers share the secrets of the their trade.
They are in the business of helping men look a cut above the rest. tabloid! chatted up Leonard Logsdail and Ray Stowers - two sensational Savile Row tailors - to get their take on the secrets behind the suits.
Between the two of them, they have taken the chest, leg and waist measurements of most of Hollywood's leading men.
Making stars including Hugh Jackman, Robbie Williams, Robert De Niro and Bruce Willis look dapper isn't just about skilful tailoring - the ability to hold your own opposite megawatt stars is a must.
The London tailors - now taking orders for local men looking to get smart - reveal how the stars get their suits, and how you can too.
In conversation with master tailor Ray Stowers
Before he rushed for his appointment with actor Jason Flemyng, who was shooting in Dubai for his film City Of Life, Ray Stowers spoke to tabloid!. The bespoke tailor doesn't budge an inch while sizing up the sartorial sense of the Middle Eastern men. Stowers, who has made suits for celebrities such as Michael Jackson, Ray Winstone, Jude Law and Josh Hartnett, feels the UAE's suit-clad men need to loosen up a bit.
"Men here have a fetish for tight suits. It's equivalent to the size zero trend in Europe. Tight suits don't work. If you have muscle, it doesn't work, if you are chubby, it doesn't work. And unless you are the model skinny type, it doesn't look good on anybody. So why this obsession with tight suits?" Stowers asks.
But far from looking perplexed, Stowers he the prospect of setting his clients right. "I think one of my biggest hang-ups about Dubai is that most people are badly advised. People are allowed to buy clothes where the sleeves are too long or the shoulders too wide. But the fault lies with the salesmen or the ads shown in the magazines. They are just misguided," he says.
In Stowers's opinion, getting professional help is a good start. In his book, The Killers frontman Brandon Flowers makes the well-dressed cut while the Topshop magnate Philip Green is in dire need of help.
"The guy [Green] is a multi-millionaire and when I see him in a paper I think to myself, 'how could he get it so wrong?' Personally, I would like to take people in the public eye aside and tell them what is right and wrong. It's my job to meet them in the middle, keeping in mind their tastes and personalities," says Stowers.
He dressed Russell Brand for the MTV Video Music Awards. "His manager and stylist wanted skintight jeans, sparkly jackets and lots of beads. So I met them halfway. The silk facing jacket with lurex thread was stylish and fused Russell's individual style with our bespoke tailoring," says Stowers. A sight that made Stowers wince was the sight of Slumdog Millionaire sensation Dev Patel at the Oscars Awards Ceremony in an "ill-fitting" Calvin Klein suit.
For a personal consultation with Stowers log on to stowersbespoke.co.uk.
In conversation with master tailor Leonard Logsdail
When Baz Luhrmann, director and choreographer of this year's Oscar musical gala stretched his arms out wide and looked dramatically up to the sky, master tailor Leonard Logsdail knew he was not enacting a scene from his latest epic, Australia.
At the time, Logsdail was in the process of measuring Oscar host Hugh Jackman's well-sculpted (an impressive 111.8-centimetre) chest, and it didn't take him long to figure out that Luhrmann was describing the suit he envisioned for Jackman. Within 10 days, Logsdail - who has been in the bespoke tailoring industry for over four decades - had whipped up a tail suit.
"In my eyes, tailoring is 90 per cent psychology and 10 per cent tailoring. When Baz stretched out his arms, I knew immediately that he had a certain vision and my job was to translate that vision into reality. I knew he [Luhrmann] wanted a suit that hugged Hugh's body. So I made the vest short, the body of the jacket short, high-waisted trousers and I put extra darts everywhere to make it fit well," says Logsdail.
Having sized up his fair share of celebrities, Logsdail says Jackman's 111.8-centimetre chest and 83.8-centimetre waist with a 27.9-centimetre drop provided the perfect raw material for draping.
"Hugh and I have worked together many times and he is one celebrity who treats people like his equal. When he was in the middle of rehearsing with Beyoncé [his dance partner in the Oscars musical number], he gave me a high-five and said he had a great photograph of us. He is a thorough gentleman. I like working with men like him," he says.
One of the youngest tailors to have his own workshop in London's famed Savile Row tailoring district, Logsdail's client catalogue is layered with names of VIPs, royalty and well-heeled businessmen. But his reply is not as well-padded when he speaks about Die-Hard star Bruce Willis.
Apparently, working with Willis is as stressful and eventful as watching his trademark action thrillers.
"He is an arrogant man. He is tough on his costume designer and the way in which he brutalised one costume designer is still fresh in my mind. She cried for 15 minutes and was in a foetal position when we left. I think he wanted to show her he was a star and in the end he went up to her and said he 'loved her and wanted to make love to her'. It was disgusting," says Logsdail. But the Sixth Sense star came to his senses and eased on the attitude with Logsdail.
"He wanted to walk out before the fittings were over. I told him categorically that I will not take responsibility for a suit which was not even fitted properly. He thought over it for a second and decided to wait until the end of the fitting. We even went to a bar later," he says.
But Logsdail resorts to tough love only if a situation demands it. Otherwise, he is known for his easy-going attitude.
"I never let my ego get ahead of me. I listen to what the people want and I feel it is not up to me to judge to tell them what they want. At the end of the day, we have to remember they have to wear the suits and they have to feel comfortable in them. Also, I am at their service," says Logsdail.
His expert service doesn't come cheap. Be prepared to dish out as much as Dh4,000 on an off-the-rack suit, Dh9,000 for a bespoke suit and for Dh60,000 Logsdail will fly out from London to fit you himself.
Contact: 04-3233148 or logon to logsdaillondon.com