Home, sweet home

Dubai has more eateries than any food reviewer could hope for, but what we don't have much of here is what the Brits would call good "home-cooked food". I'm talking roasts, puddings and sumptuous soups. If, like me, you have been craving this fare, and are willing to pay a bit of a premium for it, then go to Rivington Grill - right now!

My partner and I instantly warmed to the Grill with its clean and contemporary decor. The furnishing is simple; the artwork is not: words dashed across the walls in neon lights. Still, the juxtaposition doesn't overwhelm the senses or underwhelm design sensibilities. Our kind (but not cloying) waitress talked us through the specials.

My partner was so impressed he decided he'd compose his entire meal from the selection, but I decided to stick to the menu for a taste of their classics.

We both began with seafood: I chose the Seared Scallops with Merguez and Broad Beans, while my companion went for the Potted Shrimps. They both arrived at the table surprisingly quickly. My scallops were, without a doubt, the best I've had in Dubai. I'd had scallops at a popular Jumeirah eatery the night before (they're my favourite), and they had been rubbery, but the Grill's were what scallops should be. My knife sliced through them with encouraging ease, they were buttery in texture and they were accompanied by a nothing-short-of-divine sauce. In fact, my meal highlight was dipping the wonderful freshly-baked wholemeal sourdough into the scallop sauce. Yum! My partner's Potted Shrimps reminded him of eating anchovy paste on toast as a kid. Only truly great food elicits nostalgia. The dish was a plate of fishy buttery goodness.

We both went for traditional fare as mains, which turned out to be the least satisfying course of the meal (those scallops were a tough act to follow). My partner had a classic beef roast. The meat portion was good, as were the veggies, but the Yorkshire pudding was somewhat overcooked and therefore dry, not doughy. I went for Spring Chicken in a vegetable broth. The simple broth was refreshing, and the accompanying vegetables just right, but the chicken was a little tough, and overall the dish lacked zing.

The Grill shot back up into the good books with dessert, which we went for despite being so full. My partner had Honeycomb Ice Cream with Chocolate Sauce. He described it as his idea of the perfect dessert: simple, sweet and uncomplicated, like Reese Witherspoon before she went brunette! I went for Banoffee Pudding, an interesting take on the classic pie, and it was perfect - not too creamy, not too sticky, and not too rich. It was so good that I risked the explosion of my stomach lining to finish it off.

The Grill is pricey, but not exorbitantly so. It's a great place for a special occasion like a birthday, and it's a good spot to take visitors to see the Dubai Fountain. Expect good, wholesome food accompanied by great service and a refreshing setting. My mum's Yorkshire puddings may be better than theirs, but they'd certainly give her a run for her Banoffee-Pie-money.

What British grub goes glam
Where Souq Al Bahar, 04 423 0903
Cost Around Dh450 for a dinner for two